Żaba po wietnamsku

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„Sleeping bus”, wbrew swojej nazwie, wcale nie zachęcał do zasypiania. Laotańskie drogi, które liczbą dziur konkurować mogą z najwyższej klasy szwajcarskim serem, też nie pomagały. Gdy w końcu po kilkunastu godzinach jazdy udało nam się zasnąć przy pomocy magicznych niebieskich tabletek na literę „v” ( i nie chodzi tu o viagrę), przypadkiem przespałyśmy kontrolę graniczną. Ze słodkiej krainy snu brutalnie wyrwały nas krzyki kierowcy, który wyraźnie zdenerwowany wskazywał na nas i bramki kontrolne. Jak się okazało, dłuższy postój wcale nie był przeznaczony na toaletę, a na dokonanie odprawy paszportowej. Ten „drobiazg” jakoś umknął naszej uwadze i tym samym nielegalnie (niezauważenie?) przekroczyłyśmy granicę. Dobrze, że kierowca okazał się wystarczająco czujny i ogarnięty. Szybko pobiegłyśmy „z powrotem” do Laosu by się wymeldować, następnie wskoczyłyśmy na oczekujący skuter i zdobyłyśmy wietnamską pieczątkę. Wszystko trochę trwało, a nerwowy kierowca mocno nas poganiał (nic nie rozumiałyśmy, ale po jego krzykach można było wywnioskować, że wwożenie do kraju nielegalnych imigrantów trochę go stresuje). Tłumaczenie mu, że jako obywatelki strefy Schengen manifestujemy właśnie swoje poparcie dla otwartych granic i sprzeciw wobec zbędnej biurokracji wcale by nie pomogło. Służba graniczna miała z nas niezły ubaw. Po załatwieniu niezbędnych formalności, tym razem całkowicie oficjalnie, ponownie przekroczyłyśmy granicę. Wietnam stanął przed nami otworem.

 

Gwałtu, rety, co się dzieje! Tamten wrzeszczy, ta się śmieje

Po ponad 36 godzinach w drodze (z przystankami i przesiadką, ale jednym ciągiem – to chyba nasz dotychczasowy rekord), w końcu udało się dotrzeć do nadmorskiego Da Nang. Za radą przewodnika i w zgodzie z wcześniejszymi doświadczeniami, uciekłyśmy od natarczywych motorów i taksówek oferujących najdroższą podwózkę życia. Od pierwszych chwil tutaj uderzyła nas głośność i chaos tego wielkiego miasta. Po leniwym Laosie poczułyśmy się nieco przytoczone tą nową rzeczywistością. Wietnamczycy bardzo dużo i głośno krzyczą. Wydają się przez to nad wyraz agresywni. Do tego stopnia, że zaczynasz się poważnie zastanawiać, czy aby na pewno w jakiś niepokalany sposób nie ubliżyłeś ich matce albo nie ukradeś prosiąt z motora (właśnie tak zazwyczaj je przewożą). Może gdybyśmy rozumiały ich język i były w stanie odszyfrować jego tajemniczą treść, cała sprawa rozpłynęłaby się wokół przyjacielskich okrzyków radości. Tym razem było jednak inaczej. Dodajcie do tego ilość pojazdów na ulicach oraz brak zakazu używania sygnałów dźwiękowych i harmider gotowy. Pibczą tu wszyscy, zawsze i wszędzie. Być może jest w tym jakiś dobrze rozwinięty i perfekcyjnie zaplanowany system wczesnego ostrzegania niedzielnych kierowców, aczkolwiek same nie jesteśmy przekonane czy faktycznie jest to poparte jakąś logiką.

Kaganek oświaty i współlokator Jaszczur

W ten oto uroczy poranek żywych trupów miałyśmy rozpocząć wolontariat w pobliskiej kawiarni językowej TIPI, w której oficjalnie można rozmawiać wyłącznie po angielsku. Trzy godziny dziennie konwersacji z lokalną ludnością w zamian za przepyszną kawę po wietnamsku, ciekawe towarzystwo i nocleg.

Oprócz nas w kawiarni mieszkało jeszcze dwóch wolontariuszy – Chris z Kalifornii, Felix z Francji, a także motorowy Nguyen wraz ze swymi zwierzątkami (wiewiórką ziemną oraz pokaźnych rozmiarów jaszczurką). Szczerze? Nie pamiętamy jak naprawdę się nazywał (wietnamskie imiona są wyjątkowo nieprzystępne w wymowie i zapamiętywaniu, ze względu na specyfikę akcentowania), ale na potrzeby tego posta nazwijmy go typowym Nguyenem. Jak się później dowiedziałyśmy, funkcja motorowego polega na ustawianiu pojazdów przyjeżdżających klientów w równym rządku przed wejściem. Porządek musi być. Nguyen żył w swoim własnym świecie. Kilka razy dziennie wyciągał zwierzęta z klatek w celach treningowych. Szybko zaadaptowałyśmy do sytuacji. Po dwóch miesiącach w Azji, nasza tolerancja w stosunku do istot potencjalnie obrzydliwych znacznie wzrosła. Najbliższego karalucha zapraszamy do wspólnego grilowania (jak jesteś taki dzielny, to wskakuj na ruszt), a przy szczurach wesoło tupiemy nogą, licząc na to, że odejdą nieco dalej. Zazwyczaj odchodzą.

Pozytywnie zaskoczyło nas, jak wielu ludzi przychodzi do TIPI, żeby ćwiczyć swoje zdolności językowe. Wygadane dzieciaki, ambitna młodzież, dorośli którzy słusznie twierdzą, że na naukę nigdy nie jest za późno. Nasze pragnienia lokalnych doświadczeń spełniły się ze sporą nadwyżką. Wszyscy chętnie opowiadali o kulturze i zwyczajach Wietnamu. Niosłyśmy nie tylko kaganek oświaty poprzez ćwiczenie z innymi języka, ale też zachęcałyśmy do samodzielnych wojaży poza krajem i drobnego protestu wobec tradycyjnego wzorca kobiety gotującej i sprzątającej. Wietnamki w wieku lat powyżej 20 powinny mieć już solidnego kandydata na męża, któremu potem będą prać i prasować. W przeciwnym wypadku lokalna społeczność określa je mianem „FA”, czyli „Forever Alone” – po wietnamsku “ee” (niby proste, a niemożliwie trudne do wymówienia). Co ciekawe termin ten jest na tyle powszechny, że znają go zarówno młodsze jak i starsze pokolenia.

Żaby, węgorze – o dobry Boże!

Doświadczyłyśmy również wielkiej gościnności Wietnamczyków. Jeden z klientów kawiarni, chcąc pokazać nam charakterystyczne smaki regionu, zaprosił na wystawny obiad złożony z lokalnych smakołyków. W menu znajdowały się słynne „Quang Noodle”, czyli makaron ryżowy z kurczakiem (a raczej jego kośćmi ze śladowymi ilościami mięsa, za to sporymi tłuszczu) i gotowanym jajem. Do tego dużo ziół i zieleniny oraz zawijasy z ryżowego papieru DIY. Nie był to posiłek życia, co sprawiło że nasze żołądki po raz kolejny z rozrzewnieniem wspomniały tajskie jedzenie.

Ośmioletnia Sunny wraz z tatą zabrali nas na rodzinną kolację (tym razem noodle z owocami morza). Każdego ranka ćwiczyłyśmy techniki targowania się na lokalnym markecie. Znajomi z TIPI polecili nam wybrać się na przepyszną zupę z żabą i innymi rodzajami mięs. Wskazali odpowiednie ku temu miejsce, zapisując dla pewności na karteczce gdzie dokładnie mamy się udać i co zamówić. Danie okazało się kompletnym niewypalem i spowodowało uzasadnioną awersję do jedzonych tu każdego dnia zup. Zupa na śniadanie, zupa na obiad i zupa na kolację. Zupa we śnie i na jawie. Do tego dużo piwa, ryżowych “podpłomyków” i innych osobliwych zagryzek. Niechęć do zup została nieco zniwelowana dopiero przez jej wariant z węgorzem – śniadaniowy przysmak na który zabrała nas jedna z pracowniczek TIPI. Jedynym co naprawdę przypadło nam do gustu był “Sticky Rice Cake”, czyli coś na kształt ciastka z lepkiego ryżu ze zmielonym mięsem i fasolą w środku. Po ulicach miasta o każdej porze dnia i nocy jeżdżą na motorach sprzedający, ogłaszając donośnym nagraniem przez megafon swoją ofertę.

Ciężki, „pieszki” los w motorowym raju

Warto wspomnieć o kolejnej tradycji, która przypomniała nam o sytuacji z Laosu. Chodzi o tak zwane „Bia Hoi” i spożywanie napojów wyskokowych na małych, plastikowych krzesełkach przy niemal każdej uliczce. Ku naszemu szczeremu zdziwieniu, Wietnamczycy zaczynali pić swoje ulubione piwo już od wczesnych godzin (uwaga!) PRZEDpołudniowych. Jedna z teorii zakłada konieczność zapijania biednego losu tanimi trunkami. Brak wysokiej akcyzy na alkohol sprawia, że picie oznacza tu życie. Zaczęłyśmy się zastanawiać, kiedy Ci wszyscy niekończący się biesiadnicy i potencjalni bumelanci znajdują czas na pracę? W odpowiedzi dostałyśmy informację, że “gdzieś pomiędzy jednym piwem a drugim”. Najlepsze w tym wszystkim jest to, że na motor wsiadają na regularnym rauszu. Przy tutejszym zamieszaniu na drogach jest to igranie z losem. Przechadzki po mieście nie należały do najprzyjemniejszych, ze względu na duży ruch. Chodniki były całkowicie zajęte przez stragany sprzedawców i parkujące motocykle. Jako że nigdy nie jeździłyśmy skuterem, a życie nam jeszcze miłe, postanowiłyśmy chwilowo odpuścić naukę.

Przejście przez ulicę stanowiło nie lada wyzwanie. Podobno jedyną słuszną metodą jest podążanie  śmiałym i żwawym krokiem przed siebie, bez oglądania się na potencjalne zagrożenia. Motocykle i tak Cię ominą. Każde Twoje zawahanie i przystanięcie, w tej nierównej walce o przetrwanie, może je tylko zmylić. Brak komunikacji miejskiej i spore odległości sprawiały, że ciężko było dostać się do wielu interesujących punktów Da Nang jednocześnie tanio i szybko. Z pomocą przyszedł poznany w kawiarni Tim. Porzucił rodzime Stany Zjednoczone na rzecz podróży po Azji. Osiadł w Wietnamie na dłużej i rozpoczął pracę jako nauczyciel angielskiego. Aktywnie działał na rzecz promowania nauki języka wśród Wietnamczyków i tak jak my udzielał się jako wolontariusz w TIPI. Wraz z pretendującym do bycia przewodnikiem znajomym, zapakowali nas na swoje motory i zabrali na wycieczkę poza miasto.

Pierwszym przystankiem była okoliczna świątynia i statua Pani Buddy. Odpowiedzialny za oprawę wizualną przewodnik, robiąc zdjecie nieopatrznie uciął jej głowę. My się nie gniewamy. Mamy nadzieje że Pani Budda również nie poczyta mu tego za obrazę majestatu.

Po kilku kolejnych kilometrach dotarliśmy na Małpią Górę (Nui Son Tra). Została tak nazwana przez stacjonujących tu niegdyś żołnierzy amerykańskich, ze wzgledu na występowanie tu sporych ilości Makaków. Na samym szczycie znajduje się luksusowy resort, który jakaś para z Rosji wynajęła ostatnimi czasy na wyłączność na cały tydzień. Przy drzewie będącym bazą militarną podczas wojny, nasz przewodnik dostał kolejną szansę, żeby wykazać się kadrowaniem godnym Cartier-Bressona. Oto efekt.

Ostatnim przystankiem była kamienista plaża – popularne miejsce do fotografii ślubnych. Fale odbijające się od wielkich skał, małe bambusowe altany, zapach ryb i morska bryza we włosach. Idealne miejsce na przehamakowanie całego dnia. Zafascynowana nautystyką Kasia miała ogromną ochotę “pożyczyć” typową wietnamską łódkę, aczkolwiek tym razem skończyło się tylko na zdjęciu, które stało się później okładką magazynu National Geographic.

Po wszystkim chłopaki odstawili nas bliżej miejskiej części wybrzeża na kolacje złożoną ze świeżych owoców morza. Najedzone i szczęśliwe że nie zupą, pospieszyłyśmy zobaczyć z bliska jak wielki, iluminujący kolorami most w kształcie smoka zionie wodą i ogniem. Nie trzeba było wysyłać mu SMSa jak naszemu Krakowskiemu, wystarczyło zjawić się punktualnie o 21. Niestety nie pochwalimy się niesamowitym zdjęciem tego wielkiego wydarzenia, gdyż zmęczony po całym dniu aparat odmówił posłuszeństwa. Jeśli ciągle macie ochotę zobaczyć ten “niesamowity” spektakl żywiołów, polecamy sprawdzić „Dragon Bridge Da Nang Fireshow„. Zawód murowany.

Dokładnie tego dnia stuknęły nam dwa miesiące w drodze, co postanowiłyśmy uczcić wspominając najlepsze momenty naszej podróży przy drinku w słynnym Bamboo Barze. Nie możemy uwierzyć w to jak szybko zleciał nam ten czas.

Miasto tysiąca i jednego lampionu 

O Hoi An zdarzyło nam się przeczytać już jakiś czas temu w artykule z „Wysokich Obcasów”. Nie podejrzewałyśmy wtedy, że będziemy miały szansę tam zawitać. Byłyśmy zaledwie 30 km od niego i usłyszałyśmy mnóstwo dobrych opinii. Zmęczone chaosem panującym w wielkim Da Nang, postanowiłyśmy dać szansę mniejszemu miasteczku. Do autobusu podrzucili nas znajomi z kawiarni – właściwie to niemal nas do niego „wrzucili”, bo przez pewien odcinek trasy goniliśmy odjeżdżający pojazd na skuterach. Godzinę późnej dotarłyśmy do celu. Znacie to uczucie, gdy miejsce podoba Wam się od pierwszego wrażenia, chociaż tak naprawdę nie zdążyliście w nim jeszcze niczego zobaczyć? My tak właśnie miałyśmy z Hoi An.

Miasteczko jest przeurocze. Piękne Stare Miasto z wiekowymi kamieniczkami i uroczymi kawiarenkami (z absolutnie przepyszną wietnamską kawą!), liczne lampiony, które nadają przytulnego klimatu, budynki w ciepłych kolorach, aleja spacerowa przy rzece, muzyka instrumentalna z głośników rozmieszczonych w różnych zakątkach – to i jeszcze więcej kreuje niesamowitą atmosferę, która natychmiast nas uwiodła. Nie bez znaczenia jest też fakt, że nieopodal znajdowały się spokojne wioski, pola ryżowe i plaża. Chociaż Hoi An jest niewielkie, to z łatwością można tu spędzić kilka dni w aktywny i urozmaicony sposób. Łatwo też odpocząć, bo wszystkie miejsca zamykane są maksymalnie o północy. Wtedy zapada spokój i cisza. Wyjątek stanowi jeden pub otwarty do białego rana, ale zmęczone po całym dniu nawet nie miałyśmy ochoty tam zaglądać. Warto też wspomnieć o (chyba) jednym z tańszych piw na świecie – w kilku miejscach w Hoi An kufel lanego browaru kosztuje odpowiednik 50 groszy (sic!). Zaskakująco, wcale nie są to nory najgorszego sortu, ale całkiem przyzwoite miejsca w centrum. Takiej ofercie nie mogłyśmy się oprzeć.

Zwiedzając Stare Miasto zaopatrzyłyśmy się w odpowiedni bilet, który pozwolił nam na zobaczenie budynków mieszkalnych i publicznych od środka oraz na wzięcie udziału w koncercie tradycyjnej muzyki wietnamskiej. Przechadzając się po centrum nie mogłyśmy nie zauważyć rzeźby z popiersiem naszego rodaka. Jak się okazało, Kazimierz Kwiatkowski (znany również jako „Kwiatkowsky” albo “Kazik” – bez konotacji politycznych), zasłużył się tu do tego stopnia, że postawiono mu pomnik. W latach 80. i 90. pracował on w Wietnamie jako architekt i konserwator zabytków. Gdy władze miasta planowały wyburzenie niszczejących kamienic, Kwiatkowski wyraził sprzeciw, naciskając na odrestaurowanie budynków. Mieszkańcy zawdzięczają mu fakt, że wiele z nich nie zostało zrównanych z ziemią. Zamiast tego odnowiono je i po dziś stanowią chlubę miasta. To dzięki ich obecności o Hoi An mówi się, że „czas się tu zatrzymał”. W roku 1999 miasto zostało wpisane do rejestru zabytków światowego dziedzictwa UNESCO, w dużej mierze przez interwencję Polaka. Miałyśmy okazję beztrosko przechadzać się po oświetlonych typowymi lampionami uliczkach i podziwiać architekturę, która stanowi mieszankę stylistyczną. Będąc swego czasu istotnym portem wymiany handlowej, miasto gościło przybyszów z różnych stron świata, głównie Chin, Japonii, Francji i Portugalii.

Hoi An – kto nie wierzy, niech zmierzy 

Jak już wspominałyśmy, Hoi An to mekka krawców i szwaczek. Musimy poświęcić temu cały akapit, bo sam proceder sprzedaży garnituru szytego na miarę, wart jest uwagi i docenienia. W mieście znajduje się mnóstwo sklepów odzieżowych, w których zawieszone na manekinach kreacje to tylko przykładowe egzemplarze. Po wejściu zostajemy obdarowani katalogami ze strojami z najnowszej kolekcji Taniego Armaniego, Zary czy Diora – dla każdego coś się znajdzie. Nim zdążymy się spostrzec, już wybraliśmy krój i materiał, a zwinne Wietnamki biorą miarę naszego kołnierzyka i sprawdzają obwód nadgarstka. Garnitur będzie gotowy tego samego dnia, ewentualnie dzień później. Cena?

-Nie ma się co przejmować, weź jeszcze trzy sukienki dla żony, będzie taniej.

A tanio jest i tak, dlatego zakłady krawieckie cieszą się wśród turystów ogromną popularnością. Nie ma miejsca w plecaku?

-To nic, usiądź kochaniutki, ja ci piwo przyniosę, ty napisz adres domowy, kilkadziesiat euro więcej i garnitur za tydzień odbierzesz od kuriera na drugim końcu globu.

Wszystko w bardzo atrakcyjnej cenie, przy tym często naprawdę świetnej jakości i wykonania (chociaż z tym ostatnim trzeba uważać). Zainteresowane sprawą, postanowiłyśmy z Beti sprawić sobie sukienki sylwestrowe. Może to głupie, ale po dwóch miesiącach chodzenia w czterech szmatach na krzyż, chciałyśmy nieco zaszaleć. Poznałyśmy więc cały proceder „od kuchni”. Otóż – wychodzisz rano z ho(s)telu do sklepu spożywczego/na śniadanie/na market. Tuż po zakupach przejmuje cię znajoma znajomej – kobieta, która „akurat była w okolicy”. Zagaduje przyjaźnie, dopytuje skąd jesteś, ile masz lat, jak długo planujesz zostać w Hoi An. Wszystko pięknie, kurtuazja na najwyższym poziomie a i angielski całkiem niezły. Już zachwycasz się w duchu jakie to miłe i sympatyczne, że lokalna pani interesuje się twym losem i zachwala niedbałą fryzurę, na wpół starty tatuaż z henny i pumpy, w których chodzisz niemal bez przerwy od miesiąca. Aż tu nagle pada hasło:

-Jestem krawcową, może pójdziesz ze mną przejrzeć ofertę? Mam mnóstwo katalogów, co tylko zechcesz. Duży wybór.

Wówczas zdajesz sobie sprawę, że masz do czynienia ze zwykłą „promotorką”, która krótką rozmową o szmerach i bajerach zaskarbia sobie twoje zaufanie, by zwabić do sklepu. A tam czekają magiczne księgi z wycinkami z ostatniego numeru magazynu „Vogue” albo działu odzieżowego gazetki z „Biedronki”. Zależy, co komu leży. Beti wolała dłuższą sukienkę – nie ma problemu – już pod nosem masz trzy inne katalogi z przeróżnymi fasonami kiecek.

-Zaznacz co ci się podoba. Jaki kolor? O, patrz, tu mamy świetne czerwone materiały. O cenę się nie martw, będzie pani zadowolona.

Wszystko rozegrało się blyskawicznie, poczułyśmy się przytłoczone i kombinowałyśmy tylko jakby się tu grzeczne ewakuować.

-Nie, nie moja kochana, nie możesz tak odejść. Jesteś pierwszą klientką dziś. Dla nas pierwszy klient najważniejszy, przynosi szczęście sprzedawcy. Kup coś proszę, bo biznes będzie zły, firma splajtuje, Budda się od nas odwróci, spadnie klątwa Tutenchamona, deszcz żab (to akurat byłoby całkiem opłacalne, albo przynajmniej byłoby co jeść – przypis GPY ) i inne plagi egipskie.

Może na religie się nie powoływały, ale cała reszta nie ma w sobie krzty przesady. Już w przewodniku przeczytałyśmy, żeby nie chodzić na zakupy z samego rana, bo pierwszy klient który odejdzie bez niczego to zły omen. Jak się okazuje większość sprzedawców tutaj, wśród mnogości innych technik perswazji, używa właśnie tego argumentu. Raz uruchomiona machina sprzedaży działała dalej. Stałyśmy się jej niezbędnymi trybikami i nie dało się już tego zatrzymać.

-Bo przecież do nowej sukienki potrzebujesz nowych butów, chodź kochaniutka, ja ci w jeden dzień uszyję. Sandałki masz tutaj, oglądaj, patrz jaką fajna skóra! A może wolisz inny kolor? Te będą wyglądały na tobie świetnie! Daj no piękna, zmierzymy stopę, o już mam, rozmiar 37. Zaliczka teraz, odbierz jutro koło południa.

Targowanie ceny, dwukrotnie odwracanie się na pięcie i poszło. Sprzedane. Sukienek nie nabyłyśmy, ale Beti w kilkanaście minut (sama nie rozumie jakim sposobem zdarzyło się to tak szybko) stała się szczęśliwą posiadaczką szytych na miarę butów, nówka spod igły. Wyglądają zacnie, kosztowały niewiele, a trwałość i jakość zweryfikuje czas.

Każdy orze jak „morze” 

Drugą część pobytu przeznaczyłyśmy na eksplorowanie okolicy. Plaża oddalona była o kilka kilometrów od centrum, a jako że jazda na skuterze (cenna umiejętność z którą rodzi się każdy Azjata) wciąż napawa nas lękiem, ruszyłyśmy tam na rowerach. Wybrałyśmy trasę wiodącą przez malownicze obrzeża, tereny zarośnięte dziką roślinnością i zajęte przez pola ryżowe. Podziwiałyśmy rolników ciężko pracujących na kawałek ryżowego ciastka i jeżdżących na bawołach, rybaków pływających w łodziach i zarzucających swoje sieci. Nawet sama plaża nie cieszyła nas tak bardzo jak zgubienie się w okolicy i podglądanie spokojnego, lokalnego życia poza turystycznym centrum miasta.  Hoi An wspominać będziemy z ogromnym sentymentem. To małe, urocze miasteczko z wielkim potencjałem i licznymi możliwościami spędzenia wolnego czasu. Dla nas również ostatni gorący przystanek . Przynajmniej na najbliższe dwa tygodnie. Ruszamy na północ kraju, do stolicy i okolic, a tam niemal 20 stopni mniej. Szczęśliwie mamy sweter. Jeden. Trochę obawiamy się szoku termicznego, ale z zieloną herbatą w dłoni powinnyśmy dać radę i jakoś to przetrwać.

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