Skok na Bangkok

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W drodze z Kambodży do stolicy Krainy Uśmiechu, czyli Tajlandii, zatrzymałyśmy się na przesiadkę w mieście Trat. Kilkugodzinne oczekiwanie na autobus postanowiłyśmy spędzić w pobliskim pubie. Z dworca do baru miałyśmy ok. pół kilometra. Po pierwszych krokach zatrzymał się przy nas samochód. Jak się okazało, był to miejscowy policjant, który zaproponował nam podwózkę do centrum na pace swojego auta. Jazda na tyłach samochodu i azjatycki „wiatr we włosach” były jednym z naszych celów. Tu udało się bez machnięcia ręką. W pobliżu pubu nie było akurat nic do jedzenia a alkohol jednak droższy niż w Kambodży, ale to nic – w środku zostałyśmy poczęstowane piwem i frytkami przez miejscowego Taja. Wszystko zaserwowane przez kelnerkę i podane z uroczym liścikiem „welcome to Thailand”. Na drogę powrotną do autobusu nie było zbyt wiele czasu, ale to też nie ma znaczenia – prosto z ulicy zgarnęła nas pracowniczka pobliskiego Tesco. Widząc nasze plecaki, bez zbędnych pytań, zawracała kilka razy na motorze, by dowieźć jedną po drugiej na dworzec.

Do Bangkoku dojechałyśmy bladym świtem (właściwie to było jeszcze ciemno). Po krótkim poszukiwaniu najdogodniejszego środka transportu zdecydowałyśmy się wziąć taksówkę. Na naszą decyzję wpłynęły nie tylko nieznajomość tego ogromnego miasta i brak jakiejkolwiek osoby, która komunikowałaby w znanym nam języku, ale też fakt, że są one tu niezwykle tanie.

Taksóweczka stoi

Z zapisanym na kartce adresem hosta błąkałyśmy się od samochodu do samochodu. Ku naszemu zaskoczeniu, żaden z kierowców nie był w stanie zidentyfikować podanego miejsca. Nikt nie dysponował systemem nawigacji czy chociaż poczciwym Google Maps.
Gdy w końcu znalazł się nasz wybawca, który rozpoznał lokację, z ulgą padłyśmy na skórzane siedzenia. Po niemal dobie w podróży marzyłyśmy już tylko o wspaniałym momencie, w którym wreszcie położymy się do łóżka. Droga ciągnęła się w nieskończoność. W pewnej chwili zdałyśmy sobie sprawę, że kierowca krąży po tej samej ulicy i niepewnie rozgląda się dookoła. Gdy w końcu zapytał nas gdzie ma jechać, zirytowane wysiadłyśmy z samochodu. Zrobiło się już na dobre jasno. W pobliskiej kawiarni złapałyśmy internet i z uruchomionym systemem nawigacji ruszyłyśmy dalej. Kolejny taksówkarz, którego tym razem pokierowałyśmy, dowiózł nas na miejsce.

Po Bangkoku „woziłyśmy się” głównie taksówkami. Przy 3 osobach cena jest niewiele wyższa od kosztu biletu kolejki, przy tym nie trzeba się przesiadać. Przydaje się jednak wcześniejsze przygotowanie i znajomość trasy oraz sporo cierpliwości – w godzinach szczytu korki są spore, przejazd 10 km zajął nam ok. godziny. Nie warto ustalać kwoty przed podróżą – na pewno będzie sporo wyższa niż ta z taksometru. I tu – jak wszędzie – można też naciąć się na nieoficjalnych kierowców – to ci, którzy nie posiadają plakietki ze zdjęciem w środku. Raz złapałyśmy takiego spryciarza i wysiadłyśmy po dwóch zakrętach. W jego samochodzie taksometr podbijał cenę co kilka sekund.

Happy Bangkok Family

Od początku wiedziałyśmy, że w Bangkoku znajdziemy hosta przez Couchsurfing. Pomijając wszystkie zalety tego portalu, przy większych miastach jest to szczególnie użyteczne. Można dostać sporo cennych wskazówek i nie tracić czasu na błądzenie jak dziecko we mgle (w tym wypadku – w smogu). Aashiq pochodzi z Indii i pracuje jako główny menadżer Fashion TV. Drzwi do jego mieszkania otworzył nam ochroniarz, bo Aashiq był już w pracy. Całe lokum z lodówką wypełnioną po brzegi było do naszej dyspozycji. I to dosłownie – jak się okazało Aashiq mieszkał gdzie indziej. Drugi pokój zajmowała couchserferka z Rosji. Miałyśmy zatem własne mieszkanie w Bangkoku.

Gdy w końcu się wyspałyśmy, powitał nas host. Tym razem nie chlebem i solą, a pizzą i tequilą. Na brak gościnności narzekać nie mogłyśmy. Zaprezentował nam również zamontowany w salonie zestaw różnokolorowych świateł dyskotekowych oraz działanie sprzętów elektronicznych (4 piloty ciężko ogarnąć samemu). Po krótkiej rozmowie zostałyśmy członkami jego „Bangkok Family”. Ze względu na napięty grafik, nie mógł spędzić z nami zbyt wiele czasu. Mogłyśmy za to swobodnie korzystać z dóbr jego mieszkania przez kilka kolejnych dni. Do Bangkoku wracamy w styczniu. Aashiq już zapowiedział nam szalone rooftop party. Podobno stolica Tajlandii z wysokości prezentuje się całkiem imponująco. Na przyszłość, dla pewności że nie będziemy miały problemów z dostaniem się do środka, dał nam klucze do apartamentu. Takie doświadczenia bardzo lubimy.

Bangkok to miasto, które może łatwo przytłoczyć. Wielki ruch, rozbudowana sieć środków transportu, spore odległości między kolejnymi interesującymi punktami. Mnóstwo ludzi, głosów i zapachów (a z tym jak wiadomo raz lepiej, raz gorzej).

Tak było m.in. w Chinatown, które zaskoczyło nas liczbą wszystkiego. Od bransoletek, wisiorków, śróbek i wkrętów (te ostatnie oprócz na kolejnych stanowiskach, wisiały również w powietrzu) poprzez błyszczące buty, ubrania i gadżety we wszystkich wzorach i kolorach, aż po całe palety materiałów. Większość przeznaczona na sprzedaż hurtową.

Gdy w końcu zrobiłyśmy się głodne i naszła nas ochota na coś pożywniejszego niż kulki rybne czy, swoją drogą całkiem niezłe, pieczone banany, nagle wszystkie restauracje świata zapadły się pod ziemię. Na naszej drodze jak grzyby po deszczu wyrastały za to kolejne sklepy z asortymentem złotniczym. Po krótkim błądzeniu wokół chińskiego marketu, czym prędzej się ewakuowałyśmy.
Kumulacją dostępności wszystkiego a jednocześnie spełnieniem marzeń każdej prawdziwej zakupoholiczki była wizyta na jednym z największych marketów na świecie – Chatuchak. Za grosze (tj. bahty) można tu nabyć produkty, które u nas znajdziemy ze sporą przebitką cenową. Oprócz tradycyjnej masówki, wiele stanowisk oferowało wyroby handmade. Urocze mydełka o kształtach i zapachach owoców można było znaleźć niemal na każdym rogu. Wyszukane buty domowej roboty, dizajnerskie ciuchy, których pozazdrościć mógłby niejeden hipster z Warszawki. O ile my karmiłyśmy tylko nasze oczy (wszak jeszcze kilka miesięcy z plecakiem przed nami, zakupy muszą poczekać), to Ola mogła poszaleć nabywając kolejne pamiątki.

One (last) night in Bangkok

Bangkok znany jest na całym świecie jako zagłębie seksturystyki. Ulica Soi Cowboy, czyli czerwone latarnie „miasta grzechu”, również znalazła się w planie naszego zwiedzania.

Wypełniona świecącymi klubami przed którymi stoją grupy kuso odzianych Tajek (albo i Tajów z zachwianą tożsamością płciową, ale za to z figurą godną pozazdroszczenia).
Z jednym miałyśmy ostatnio okazję zamienić kilka słów. Przysiadł się do nas w jednym z barów karaoke, którego był pracownikiem. Pochwalił nasze ciuchy i fryzury, z entuzjazmem prezentując swoją. Z chęcią zrobiliśmy sobie również wspólne zdjęcie. W geście przyjaźni ofiarował nam dwie dziergane bransoletki, otrzymując w zamian jedno z trzech lusterek Beti. Ciężko było jej się z nim rozstać, ale wzruszyła nas jego historia. Niemal płakał powtarzając:
-You understand, me no mama, no papa.
Gładząc się żałośnie po brzuchu dodał:
-Me hungry, me no money. you borrow I give back tomorrow. Last money I buy beer.
Zaczęło robić się niezręcznie. Czując że padamy ofiarą naciagacza, ewakuowałyśmy się patrząc czy przypadkiem nas nie śledzi.

Transwestyci i ich koleżanki po fachu na Soi Cowboy mają jednak ważniejsze zadanie. Zaciągają przechodzących obok mężczyzn do centrum rozpusty i rekreacji. Nas jednak nikt szczególnie nie zapraszał (wciąż zachodzimy w głowę dlaczego). Rozczarowane, z wrodzonej skromności odpuściłyśmy oglądanie erotycznego show i ruszyłyśmy dalej.
Odkrywanie życia nocnego kontynuowałyśmy na Khao San Road – ulicy wypełnionej marketami, klubami i turystami z plecakami. Nieco mniej tu wystrojonych Tajek i transwestytów, sporo zaś odwiedzających z całego świata.

Khao San tętni życiem do późnych godzin nocnych. Przy jednym przejściu średnio kilkadziesiąt razy zaczepią cię: pani sprzedająca czapki w fantazyjnych kolorach, drewniane żaby (ich „rechot” po dziś towarzyszy nam w koszmarach – żab, nie pań), dziewczyna zachęcająca do zakupu bransoletek z tak wymyślnymi tekstami jak ” I love rape”, panowie zapraszający na ping pong show czy sprzedający smażone robaki. Na to ostatnie skusiłyśmy się w ramach akcji „jemy lokalne przysmaki”. Skorpion był całkiem niezły (wedle zodiakalnego skorpiona, czyli Kasi, to było do przewidzenia), karalucha schrupałyśmy z żalem (tyle wspólnie przespanych nocy w Kuala Lumpur, już prawie się polubiliśmy). Z pasikonikiem był pewien problem, skrzydełka wchodziły między zęby. Był chyba słabo doprawiony, bo niemal stawał w gardle. Jakoś to wszystko dało się przełknąć.

Przekąskę musiałyśmy prędko przepić. Z mnóstwa ulicznych pubów wybrałyśmy „Day of the Dead”. Wystrój z licznymi kolorowymi wizerunkami Świętej Śmierci, „Rocky Horror Picture Show” na ekranie, zacna muzyka i jeszcze lepsze towarzystwo sprawiły, że wracałyśmy tu co wieczór.

Tym razem okazja była szczególna – nasze grono miało się wkrótce pomniejszyć i po miesiącu wspólnie przeżytych emocji i wrażeń Ola wracała do domu. Zrobiło się nieco nostalgicznie, nasze myśli zdominowała na moment refleksja nad prędko upływającym czasem i wspomnienia cudownych przygód. Pozytywny nastrój szybko jednak wrócił i z takim do końca zamykałyśmy etap wspólnej podróży. Teraz trochę prywaty – Ola – dziękujemy i całujemy, do zobaczenia w Polsce.

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