Wielka ucieczka

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Zmęczone miejską dżunglą, tłumem ludzi i wszechobecnym smogiem, zdecydowałyśmy się znaleźć miejsce, które pasowałoby do wizerunku rajskiej plaży z palemką, znanego nam z sekcji ‚tapety’ Windows ’98. Nie chciałyśmy trafić do punktu przepełnionego turystami, dlatego wybrałyśmy Perhentian Islands na północnym wschodzie kraju, polecane jako idealne miejsce dla backpackersów. Jak się okazało, była to decyzja najlepsza z możliwych. Zbliżał się monsun i sezon właśnie się tu kończył, dlatego dużo miejsc było już zamkniętych a większość odwiedzających stanowili Malezyjczycy, którzy wybrali się na weekendowy wypoczynek.
Z Kuala Lumpur ruszyłyśmy nocnym autobusem. Ze względu na złamaną nogę Beti, znowu spotkałyśmy się ze specjalnym traktowaniem i zostałyśmy posadzone na miejscach VIP. Wystrój pojazdu był niesamowitą mieszanką ‚salonu z mieszkania babci’ ze śladowymi ilościami pseudo przepychu z pałacu ubogiej księżniczki. Fotele obite welurem w kolorowe kwiaty, drewniane oparcia wypolerowane na błysk i grube kotary upięte w fantazyjne falbany. Brakowało tylko obrazu z końmi. Wbrew naszym obawom i mimo braku toalety podczas dziewięciogodzinnej trasy (na szczęście doczekałyśmy postoju), droga przebiegła sprawnie i całkiem komfortowo.

Nie mogę, bo leżę w hamaku 

W miasteczku Kuala Besut, z którego miałyśmy prom, zostałyśmy obskoczone przez kilku mężczyzn, którzy próbowali sprzedać nam bilet po ‚very good price’. Po krótkich negocjacjach stawki (polecana praktyka, oferta początkowa dla turystów to zawsze spora przebitka pierwotnej ceny), wsiadłyśmy do motorówki i w godzinę dotarłyśmy na wyspę.

Ceny posezonowe przyjemnie nas zaskoczyły – za 2 noce w komfortowej i czyściutkiej chatce z klimatyzacją (bez tego przyzwoita egzystencja tu jest niemożliwa) przy samiutkim morzu zaplaciłyśmy ok. 150 RM. Już po chwili rozkoszowałyśmy się widokiem bieluteńkiego piasku, przejrzystego morza we wszystkich odcieniach błękitu oraz zielonych palm kokosowych. I to wszystko z własnego tarasu!

Gdy tak rozłożone w cieniu palm podziwiałyśmy niewiadomego pochodzenia żyjątko skaczące po ich koronach, zastanawiając się czy to aby nie Lola, która jakimś cudem przyjechała za nami z KL, podszedł do nas osobnik o stylizacji wyraźnie inspirowanej tradycją hipisowską. Jak się okazało był przyjaźnie nastawiony. Powitał nas na swojej wyspie, zamieniliśmy kilka niezobowiązujących zdań o naszych planach wyjazdowych, po czym odszedł gotować kurczaka z ryżem. Jak się okazało, był to właściciel lokalnej restauracji, w której przyszło nam się stołować. Świeże owoce morza i makarony w niebiańskich sosach miały od teraz pieścić nasze podniebienia, nadal odrzucające fakt istnienia grypy żołądkowej.

‚Gdzie jest Nemo?’ od kuchni

Po skorzystaniu z uroków rajskiej plaży, zakosztowałyśmy również morza. Dosłownie. Stwierdziłyśmy, że dobrym wstępem do nurkowania będzie snorkeling – nurkowanie z rurką. Trzygodzinna wycieczka obejmowała pływanie w turkusowej lagunie w towarzystwie ławicy kolorowych ryb, podziwianie bogatej fauny i flory dna morskiego, odwiedziny żółwii morskich oraz… ‚shark point’, czyli wizytę u rekinów. To ostatnie brzmiało dosyć groźnie, ale zapewnione przez pana, że rekin jest wegetarianinem i ludzkiego mięsa nie tyka, Kasia z Olą wybyły na poszukiwania. Było to dosyć czasochłonne i sporo musiały się namachać, ale ich wysiłek został wynagrodzony i udało się zobaczyć złowrogie szczęki. Przez grzeczność nie podpłynęły bliżej, a na obiad, zamiast owoców morza, zjadły kurczaka.

Wrażenia z wycieczki były niesamowite – bogactwo dna morskiego i jego kolorystyka oraz przeurocze, wielkie żółwie – to wszystko zachęciło do spróbowania nurkowania na większych głębokościach.

Nawet Beti, która musi poczekać jeszcze chwilę na eksplorowanie głębin, miała szansę liznąć odrobinę morskiej soli. Niespodziewanie, popularna atrakcja turystyczna, w dodatku tak tania (40 RM!), dostarczyła sporej dawki emocji.

Jedynym minusem tej wycieczki była opalenizna, a właściwie poparzenie słoneczne, które pojawiło się po powrocie. Jako posiadaczki bardzo jasnej karnacji (dbając o dobry PR użyjmy określenia ‚alabastrowej’ ), wysmarowałyśmy się kremami z mocnym filtrem (50 i 60!). Najwyraźniej nie wytrzymały one kontaktu z wodą, przez co Ola i Kasia zaczęły intensywnie afiszować swój patriotyzm biało – czerwoną skórą. Dziewczyny poczuły w tym momencie ukłucie zazdrości w stosunku do pań Muzłumanek, które dzięki konieczności pełnego ubioru, zminimalizowały do zera ryzyko poparzeń. Jak się później okazało osobliwa opalenizna była proroctwem wejścia naszej drużyny do Euro 2016. Obawiamy się jednak o jej przyszłość, gdyż z każdym dniem blednie w oczach…

Drugie oblicze drinka z palemką

Na szczęście na wyspie znalazłyśmy już swój lek na całe zło. Są to szejki intensywnie owowcowe, tak przepyszne, że należałoby im poświęcić osobny akapit. Chociaż przed wyjazdem słyszałyśmy ostrzeżenie, by unikać napojów z lodem w celu zmniejszenia ryzyka zatrucia pokarmowego, przy obecnych temperaturach nie potrafimy tego przestrzegać. Dzięki naszej ignorancji wobec dobrych rad ludzi o słabych żołądkach, odkryłyśmy napój, którym raczymy się co wieczór. Okazał się idealnym zastępstwem dla zwyczajowego drinka z palemką (ceny alkoholu w Malezji są zaporowe). Wybitnie pyszne zastępstwo sprawiło,  że z drinkami pożegnałyśmy się bez żalu.

Nie bez nostalgii natomiast opuszczamy nasz mały raj. A to dlatego, że już za kilka dni wyspy zostaną zamknięte dla turystów w związku ze zbliżającym się monsunem. Uciekamy zatem dalej na północ – ku Tajlandii i Kambodży, rozbrajać (albo stroić) miny.

Kolejny post po kilkudziesięciogodzinnej podróży pociągiem. Mamy nadzieje, że okaże się mniej zawodny niż nasze polskie PKP.

320 komentarze(y)
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    A ja tak bardzo pragnę większej ilości opisów miejsc, klimatu, nastrojów i emocji… Chcę choć trochę poczuć się jakbym tam z wami był 😀

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