Half way there…

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Po powrocie z wysp udałyśmy się do Kota Bharu, miasteczka położonego kilkadziesiąt kilometrów od granicy.

IMG_20151022_52204Zatrzymałyśmy się w hostelu prowadzonym przez dwóch miłych panów, którzy koniecznie chcieli sobie zrobić z nami zdjęcia. Dużo zdjęć. Samo miasteczko niczym nas nie ujęło, a niezwykle tu popularny deser lodowy z fasolą, kukurydzą i innymi równie kuszącymi dodatkami zachęcił tylko, by jak najszybciej ruszyć dalej.

Gdy Beti kuśtykała ‚żwawo’ w kierunku dworca autobusowego, jej losem zainteresowała się pewna przechodząca obok Muzułmanka z proroctwem w zanadrzu:
-Sama wybrałaś ten los. My Muzułumanie mamy takie powiedzenie, ‚Bóg go uleczy’. Oby uleczył i Ciebie.

Do granicy zamiast taksówką  dostałyśmy się busem. Pan z odprawy celnej przed opuszczeniem Malezji nie chciał uwierzyć, że przyleciałyśmy z Polski zaledwie tydzień temu i dopiero okazanie biletu lotniczego przekonało go do przepuszczenia nas dalej. Nie jesteśmy pewne gdzie dokładnie widział problem, ale szczęśliwie nie trzeba było go rozwiązywać przy pomocy banknotów z żółwiem (bardzo nam się spodobały i żal było się ich pozbywać). Przy odprawie po stronie tajskiej poszło już gładko. Ignorując tutejsze taksówki, czyli natarczywych panów na skuterach, w 3 minuty złapałyśmy stopa, który podwiózł nas do dworca autobusowego. Stąd rzutem na taśmę zdążyłyśmy na ostatni autobus do Hatyai – jednego z największych miast Tajlandii. (Zbyt) optymistycznie założyłyśmy, że tej samej nocy ruszymy stamtąd  pociagiem do Bangkoku. Gdy tylko wygramoliłyśmy się z busa, napadli nas rozkrzyczani tuk-tukowcy, którzy zdawali się nie pojmować, że tajski nie znajduje się w podstawie programowej każdego gimnazjum na Podkarpaciu. Odstraszeni naszą asertywnością (Beti ma z nią delikatny problem, gdyż w rezultacie nie udało jej się uczestniczyć w korporacyjnym kursie sztuki odmawiania) odeszli nagabywać innych turystów. W tym samym momencie pan z busa zakomunikował niewerbalnie, że sam chętnie nas podwiezie na stację kolejową. Tym sposobem my, on, jego dwóch kolegów i nasza bariera językowa, zaczęliśmy krążyć po mieście. Na koniec wskazując na nogę Beti, wręczyli nam 2$. Musiałyśmy wyglądać naprawdę marnie…
Powitał nas ciemny opustoszały dworzec. Jak się okazało, kolejny pociąg do Bangkoku odjeżdżał kolejnego dnia około godziny 15. Po chwili namysłu, postanowiłyśmy zatrzymać się w poleconym nam guesthousie. O pomoc w jego odnalezieniu poprosiłyśmy lokalną policję, czyszczącą właśnie swoje karabiny. Narzędzia potrzebne do dogadania się z lokalnym mundurowym: szeroki, perswazyjny uśmiech Aleksandry, nadmiernie gestykulujące ręce Katarzyny, kilka losowych dźwięków z ust Beti, która w swojej głowie już do perfekcji opanowała tajski, a także niezastąpione kartka i długopis. Z nakreśloną na kawałku papieru ‚mapą’ ruszyłyśmy do przodu, gdy nagle pan policjant podjechał aby zgarnąć Beti na skuter, po czym ruszył zostawiając Kasię i Olę gdzieś z tyłu. Zatrważona Beti bez zasięgu i pieniędzy, już miała przed oczami wizję samotnej tułaczki po Hatyai wieczorową porą, gdy nagle z rykiem silników zza rogu wyłoniło się dwóch mundurowych na skuterach, wioząc ze sobą zagubione towarzyszki. Wszystko pięknie, aczkolwiek nasza komunikacja najwyraźniej zawiodła, gdyż zamiast do wskazanego przez nas guesthouse’u, chłopaki podrzucili nas do apartamentowca godnego króla Tajlandii (zapewne z nadzieją że uzyskamy tam pomoc). Powiodło się tylko połowicznie, bo choć kolejny pomocny pan nie wykrzystusiłby słowa po angielsku nawet w zaawansowanym stadium gruźlicy, odnalazł właściwy adres i przekazał go tuk-tukowcowi. Tym sposobem za otrzymane wcześniej 2$ dostałyśmy się do naszego celu. Po nocy w Hatyai, zaopatrzone w worek longanów (przepyszne, wyglądające z wierzchu jak ziemniaki owoce, polecone przez brytyjskiego dziadka backpackersa), świadome wielogodzinnej podróży, ‚odstawszy’ śpiewany dwa razy dziennie hymn Tajlandii, wsiadłyśmy do opóźnionego o dwie godziny pociągu.

A tam klasa prawie jak w Turkish Airlines: kocyk, klimatyzacja, która mogłaby odmrozić kończyny i lokalne przysmaki dla podróżujących. Niestety, przeraźliwie ostrej ryby z ryżem nie dało się przełknąć, a klima działała tak bardzo, że dygotałyśmy nawet pod dwoma swetrami i kocykiem.

Jedynym minusem był fakt, że pociąg jechał kilkanaście (czyt. milion) godzin. Co jakiś czas zerkałyśmy na zegarek, który jakby stanął w miejscu i  dodając sobie otuchy podśpiewywałyśmy refren „O, we’re half way there”, naszego przeboju z malezyjskiego karaoke.

Dworzec w Bangkoku zdecydowanie uplasowałby się wysoko w rankingu najbrzydszych i najmniej przyjaznych podróżującym. Brak możliwości zapłaty kartą, bankomaty tylko z wysoką prowizją, wszędzie nagabywacze albo szemrane typy. Na chwilę zamarłyśmy, gdy nagle jakiś mężczyzna krzyknął coś bardzo głośno, po czym wysiadł prąd. Na minutę zapanowała grobowa cisza. Dziewczyna siedząca przed nami miała niemal łzy w oczach. Najwyraźniej pamięć o niedawnym zamachu w Bangkoku jest wciąż żywa. Na szczęście wszystko prędko wróciło do normy. Zapakowałyśmy się do pociągu i ruszyłyśmy w kierunku Kambodży. Do Tajlandii wracamy za kilka tygodni.

Granica absurdu

Tuż przed wyjazdem przeczytałyśmy informacje o tym, że pomiędzy Tajlandią a Kambodżą występują spore utrudnienia dla turystów. Samo przejście nie stanowiło wielkiego problemu, jednak cała otoczka i to co się tam działo sprawiły, że nasze naturalnie duże oczy zrobiły sie wielkie jak pięciozłotówki (bądź, adekwatnie do miejsca, 10 tajskich bahtów). Ale od początku: po kilkugodzinnej podróży pociągiem z Bangkoku dotarłyśmy do Aranyaprathet, czyli ostatniego miasta przed granicą. Oczywiscie znacznie później niż planowo, ale tutejsze koleje działają wedle sobie tylko znanego rozkładu – do tej pory miałyśmy same opóźnienia i to kilkugodzinne.

Pod koniec jazdy dowiedziałyśmy się, że wbrew temu co powiedziano nam w punkcie informacji, granica wcale nie jest zamykana o 18 a o 22. Wprowadzono nas w błąd po to, by naciągnąć na znacznie droższego busa, który miał tu dotrzeć szybciej. Dalej ruszyłyśmy tuk – tukiem prosto do granicy. Po drodze kierowca zapytał czy nie potrzebujemy wizy. Jest to powszechny scam, którego uniknęłyśmy dzięki informacjom znalezionym wcześniej w internecie. Otóż na drodze do granicy istnieje kilka nieoficjalnych punktów o jakże przekonującej nazwie „Visa official”, w których za 30$ można uzyskać pomoc w pośrednictwie, czyli tak naprawdę wielkie nic. Uprzedzone o tym fakcie zapewniłyśmy, że wizę już mamy. „Wizę właściwą” otrzymuje się na granicy, po opuszczeniu Tajlandii. Nie szło to tak lekko, jak zaplanowałyśmy (waga plecaków nie ma tu nic do rzeczy). Przedzierałyśmy się przez tłumy turystów, tuk – tukowców, skuterów z kilkoma osobami (widok 4 osób na jednym skuterze to tutaj codzienność), pick – upów z całymi rodzinami na pace. Do tego starałyśmy się omijać ludzi kierujących do kolejnych „visa office”, zapraszających do zakupów jedzenia i pamiątek, czy pokazujących nam zdechłą jaszczurkę. To wszystko ogromnie nas zdziwiło i przytłoczyło. Najgorzej miała Beti, która poruszając się wolniej o kulach, stanowiła łatwy cel dla wrzeszczących sprzedawców i kierowców. Zapadł już zmrok, a liczne światełka choinkowe (!) i muzyka nieznanego pochodzenia przywodziły na myśl raczej dobrze zapowiadającą się imprezę niż przejście graniczne. Nie wspominając już o zdziwieniu, w jakie wprawiły na nas wielkie kasyna czy luksusowe hotele w okolicy. Nie spodziewałyśmy się takiego pierwszego wrażenia z Kambodży.

Gdzieś pomiędzy tym wszystkim udało nam się znaleźć oficjalne biuro, w którym nabyłyśmy wizę. Panowie pomagali wypełnić formularze, zachęcając nas przy tym do uiszczenia „opłaty dodatkowej” (czytaj: łapówki). Udało nam się z tego wykpić brakiem tajlandzkiej gotówki (pan zapewnił, że dolary też przyjmą) i serdecznymi uśmiechami, które posyłałyśmy w ich stronę podczas wypełnianiu kolejnych rubryk. Zmęczone wszechogarniającym zamieszaniem, ruszyłyśmy do wyjścia. Jeden z urzędników stwierdził, ze nie dostaniemy się już do miasta (chciałyśmy dojechać do Siem Reap), bo o tej porze autobusy nie kursują i za niecałe 50$ załatwi nam taksówkę. Nie dawałyśmy wiary już żadnym jego słowom a kolejne drogocenne (o tak) rady wywoływały w nas rozdrażnienie. Chwilę później „przejął nas” jego kolega, który stwierdził, że jest już późno, on się o nas martwi i powinnyśmy czym prędzej stąd wyjechać. Trochę nas to zaniepokoiło, tym bardziej, że przytoczył nam kilka historii o kradzieżach i pobiciach. Udało nam się go pozbyć, ale po chwili wrócił z informacją, że zorganizował nam 3 miejsca w busie do Siem Reap. Nie wiedziałyśmy, czy chce nam pomóc, czy nas na coś naciągnąć. Zdezorientowane i zmęczone, zdecydowałyśmy się jednak skorzystać z jego oferty. Cena była rozsądna a bus miał nas odwieźć do miejsca noclegu. Pragnęłyśmy jak najszybciej znaleźć się w normalnym łóżku. Wybredne nie jesteśmy, ale spanie w jadącym kilkanaście godzin pociągu regeneruje nieco słabiej.

Tak jak się obawiałyśmy, autobus nie dojechał do samego centrum. Musimy przyznać, że gdy zatrzymał się na ciemnych obrzeżach, poczułyśmy się nieswojo. Na miejscu czekał na nas podstawiony tuk – tukowiec, który co prawda odwiózł nas pod wskazany adres, jednak niemal wymusił w zamian wspólny przejazd do Angkor Wat. Czyli jedni „nagrali robotę” drugim. Cóż, i tak miałyśmy tam jechać, więc umówiłyśmy się z nim na wycieczkę. Styrane, spocone i objuczone bagażem, stanęłyśmy u progu naszego hoteliku. Droga była długa, ale miała przebiec gładko i bez problemów. Chciałyśmy poświęcić jej dwa zdania a nie cały wpis.
Było inaczej.
Cambodia welcome to.

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