Mój drogi Laosie – cenne wrażenia i bezcenna praca

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Droga do Vang Vieng była kręta i wyboista, ale powoli zaczynamy się przyzwyczajać do tego, że sporo z nich tak wygląda. Górskie miasteczko zauroczyło nas od pierwszego wejrzenia. Przepiękne, masywne skały wapienne, dużo zieleni, jaskinie, pobliska błękitna laguna i rzeka Nam Sang złożyły się na piękny krajobraz i miejsce, w którym każdy chce zostać dłużej.

W ramach ciekawostki warto dodać, że w licznych restauracjach emitowany jest nieustannie serial „Przyjaciele”. Można się naprawdę zasiedzieć na wygodnych kanapo – leżankach, pochłaniając z zapałem nie tylko następną porcję ryżu, ale i kolejne odcinki. Zmęczone nieco uprzednim lenistwem stolicy, postanowiłyśmy tym razem nie dać się pochłonąć zgubnym nawykom i spędzić ten czas aktywnie.

Pływanie w oponie – szczęściarz kto nie tonie

Na odkrywanie uroków Vang Vieng miałyśmy tylko jeden dzień. Aby wykorzystać go możliwie jak najbardziej, postanowiłyśmy zabukować wycieczkę zorganizowaną, która pozwoliła  nam na odwiedzenie większości tutejszych atrakcji. Zaczęło się od chodzenia po jaskiniach i tubingu w jednej z nich. Tubing, czyli pływanie w oponie, to główna atrakcja turystyczna miasteczka. Miejska legenda głosi, że jeden z mieszkańców był posiadaczem zbyt dużej kolekcji opon od traktora. Wyrzucił je do rzeki, a sprytni ludzie znaleźli kreatywny sposób na ich wykorzystanie. Jeszcze kilka lat temu na tubing ściągały tu setki turystów. Pływali rzeką, przy której ustawionych było sporo mniej lub bardziej prowizorycznych pubów. Oczywiście zatrzymywali się w większości z nich na drinka albo dziesięć. Gdy usłyszałyśmy o idei pływania i upijania się w kółku przez cały dzień, zadarłyśmy nos do góry i dumnie stwierdziłyśmy, że aż tak leniwe nie jesteśmy i nie mamy zamiaru korzystać z tego typu „rozrywki”. Nie od dziś wiadomo, że alkohol i woda to nie najlepsze połączenie. Po drastycznie rosnącej liczbie utonięć (nawet do 30 jednego roku), sprawa została nagłośniona w mediach, w wyniku czego zamknięto większość pubów. Tubing wciąż ma się dobrze, ale przy rzece jest już tylko kilka barów. Niestety – wciąż zdarzają się tragedie. Nawet podczas naszego pobytu w miasteczku zginął jeden nieroztropny turysta.

Tubing w jaskini zdołał nas jednak do siebie przekonać. Połączony ze zwiedzaniem ciemnej groty i pozbawiony napojów wyskokowych ogromnie nam się spodobał. Zaopatrzone w czołówki i kapoki (tak mamo), odkrywałysmy głębię podziemnej rzeki w jaskini. Gdy przewodnik polecił aby wszyscy wyłączyli na chwile światło, przekonałyśmy się na własne oczy, czym są prawdziwie egipskie ciemności. Było tak ciemno, że nie mogłyśmy nawet dostrzec zarysu własnej ręki podstawionej pod sam nos.

Następnie zwiedziłyśmy grotę – świątynię, która została nazwana na cześć wapiennego słonia w jej wnętrzu. Przed dalszym ciągiem wrażeń zjadłyśmy typowy lunch złożony z ryżu, szaszłyków i świeżych owoców. Liść bananowca pełnił tu jednocześnie funkcję opakowania i jednorazowego talerza – świetny patent na wszelkie imprezy okolicznościowe.

Kolejnym etapem wycieczki były kajaki. Żadna z nas w życiu nie trzymała wiosła w dłoni, więc samodzielne przepłynięcie 10 km w palącym słońcu, którego wszyscy nam zazdrościcie, wydawało się być spełnieniem marzeń. I faktycznie, chociaż z początku szło nam wątpliwie dobrze, zrezygnowałyśmy z pomocy przewodnika i dzielnie parłyśmy naprzód. Niesamowity krajobraz tylko motywował do wiosłowania. Za każdym zakrętem czaiły się kolejne urokliwe zakątki oraz wyjątkowa roślinność. Dumnie mijałyśmy leniwe ziemniaki bujające się na oponach, pochlapując je przyjacielsko wiosłem dla lepszego efektu wysmażenia. Zmęczone, ale też usatysfakcjonowane, dotarłyśmy w końcu do mety.

Stamtąd wszyscy udaliśmy się do blękitnej (przynajmniej z nazwy) laguny. Tam oddałyśmy się beztroskiemu pływaniu i niczym zwinne małpki skakałyśmy z drzewa do wody, pokonując przy tym drobny lęk wysokości. W okolicy laguny znajdowała się jeszcze jedna jaskinia, jednak słońce chyliło się już ku zachodowi, a przewodnik, wbrew wcześniejszym zapewnieniom, rozpłynął się w powietrzu. Zdecydowałyśmy zatem nie zapuszcać się samotnie w jej czeluści. Podobno ciemno tam i ślisko, a nasze ubogie doświadczenie w roli grotołaza i przebłyski zdrowego rozsądku nakazały kontynuować dzikie skoki do wody (tak mamo?).

Mimo ominięcia ostatniej jaskini, z wycieczki byłyśmy bardzo zadowolone – udało nam się doświadczyć i zobaczyć większość atrakcji Vang Vieng. Ostatnia wciąż na nas czekała – słynny pub Sakura, który przez godzinę częstował wszystkich zmęczonych turystów darmowymi drinkami. Nie omieszkałyśmy skorzystać z jego hojnej oferty. Warto wspomnieć również o ciekawym menu kilku restauracji w Vang Vieng. Przy niewielkim wysiłku można tu nabyć „happy pizzę” z marihuaną i inne potrawy z ekstra składnikami. W Sakurze zaś sprzedawano balony z gazem rozweselającym. Wyobraźcie sobie nasze zdziwienie, gdy w pewnym momencie dobre 30% osób w pubie zaprzestaje tańca i rozmów, zamiast tego wdychając powietrze z baloników. Cała sytuacja wyglądała dosyć absurdalnie. Niewinnie przypuszczałyśmy, że wszyscy nałykają się helu i zaczną śpiewać jak postaci z kreskówki. Efekt był nieco inny, o czym przekonałyśmy się same. Najdroższy balon w naszym życiu sprawił, że przez 10 sekund śmiałyśmy się nieco głośniej niż zazwyczaj. Kasia wciąż uważa, że czekolada działa lepiej.

Na (Luang Pra)bank!

Zniechęcone opowieściami o krętych górskich drogach do kolejnej (laotańskiej tym razem) perły północy – Luang Prabang – postanowiłyśmy zrezygnować z opcji transportu VIP, wybierając porannego mini busa. Gdy obudziłyśmy się po krótkiej drzemce na średnio wygodnych siedzeniach, aż przetarłyśmy oczy z wrażenia. Z każdej strony otaczały nas majestatyczne góry. Wiodąca pomiędzy przepaściami droga z osuwiskami skalnymi po obu stronach wyglądała, jakby wymagała częstej interwencji ratowników odpowiednika tutejszego GOPRu. Po drodze kierowca nieoczekiwanie zatrzymał się przy punkcie widokowym. Pozwoliło nam to lepiej przyjrzeć się pięknu przyrody oraz Koreańczykom robiącym sobie śmiercionośne selfie nad przepaścią.

W Luang Prabang miałyśmy rozpocząć nasz pierwszy wolontariatu znaleziony na stronie workaway.info. Kilka godzin dziennie na recepcji hostelu za darmowy nocleg i śniadanie. Na miejsce dostałyśmy się za pomocą publicznego e-busa, który był niczym innym jak nowoczesnym tuk – tukiem zasilanym energią słoneczna. Jako miasto będące dziedzictwem UNESCO, Luang Prabang musiało reprezentować pewien poziom. Aby ograniczyć ruch miejski i zanieczyszczenie, zbudowano wokół niego obwodnicę. Czystość i spokój miały nam towarzyszyć przez następnych kilka dni. Tyle bowiem miał trwać nasz pobyt tutaj.

Szybko zaprzyjaźniłyśmy się z pracownikami: Davidem i Desmondem z Irlandii oraz z początku nieśmiałym Hongiem z Wietnamu. Od tego ostatniego mamy już zaproszenie na tegoroczne święta Bożego Narodzenia w Hanoi. Chwilowe zapuszczenie korzeni dobrze nam zrobiło i pozwoliło odpocząć na moment od intensywnych wojaży. Tym razem to my patrzyłyśmy jak kolejni podróżnicy przyjeżdżają i odjeżdżają, pozostawiając po sobie puste łóżka i niesamowite historie. Pewien Francuz już od pięciu dni oczekiwał na przyjazd swojej siostry, która zdążała do Luang Prabang wraz z karawaną słoni na mający się tu wkrótce odbyć festiwal. Godzinami przesiadywał przed hotelem wypatrując jej przybycia. Śpiący całymi dniami a imprezujący nocami Benjamin, miał zatrzymać się tu na jedną noc, a w rezultacie gdy wyjeżdżałyśmy, przedłużył swój pobyt o kolejny dzień.

Senne i spokojne miasteczko to idealne miejsce na długie spacery, zwiedzanie dużej ilości świątyń czy podziwianie malowniczych zachodów słońca nad Mekongiem (deja vu?) . Przechadzając się cichymi ulicami miasta, zostałyśmy zaproszone (a raczej przymuszone) aby dołączyć do lokalnych mieszkańców, spożywających właśnie popołudniowy posiłek mocno zakrapiany Beerlao. Odmowa nie wchodziła w grę, udało nam się jednak szybko wykręcić koniecznością powrotu na recepcję.

Wieczorami na zwiedzających czekał rozkładający się wokół głównej ulicy nocny market, na którym sprzedawano ręcznie tkane szale, torby i ubrania (a także ich kiczowate podróbki), wyroby z UXO, przepyszne bagietki z przeróżnymi składnikami (viva la France!) a także owocowe szejki. Gdy targ powoli dobiegał końca, kolejnym punktem programu była słynna już “Utopia” – klimatyczny bar tuż przy rzece. Drzewa i krzewy, kolorowe światełka, oryginalny wystrój, mnóstwo puf i siedzisk oraz boisko do siatkówki sprawiały, że każdy mógł znaleźć tam coś dla siebie. Jako że miejsce to nie miało praktycznie żadnej konkurencji, można tam było spotkać wszystkie znajome twarze z hostelu. Ze względu na odgórne obostrzenia, bar zamykano punktualnie o 23.30. Laos odnalazł jednak swój własny sposób aby ominąć te drobne niedogodności i nie pozostawić głodnych wrażeń imprezowiczów samym sobie. Pod “Utopią” czekały już tuk – tuki zachwalające nocny wypad na kręgle. Pod pretekstem gry kryło się kontynuowanie imprezy w towarzystwie mocno wstawionych turystów, raczących się alkoholem o mocno zawyżonych cenach. Tym razem odpuściłyśmy. Nie do końca wpisywało się to w naszą definicję dobrej zabawy.

Kolejnego dnia wraz z grupą zorganizowaną przez Francuza Michaela, pojechałyśmy zwiedzić słynny wodospad Kuang Si. Zachwyciły nas piękne widoki, błękitna laguna i strumienie wody wypływające wprost z górskiej dżungli. Po godzinnym trekkingu do jaskini okazało się, że oprócz biletu wstępu na sam teren parku przyrodniczego, musimy dopłacić również za wstęp do jej wnętrza. Zbytnio nas to nie zdziwiło. Ciągle opłaty za wejście na każdą mała górkę czy przejście przez most z bambusa, stały się znakiem rozpoznawczym tego turystycznego miasteczka.

Te kilka dni minęło szybciej niż się spodziewałyśmy. Nasza wiza do Wietnamu rozpoczynała się od pierwszego grudnia, a drugiego miałyśmy być już na kolejnym wolontariacie w Da Nang. Po krótkim rekonesansie, postanowiłyśmy jechać sypialnym autobusem do wietnamskiego Vinh i tam przesiąść się na transport dalej na południe. Gdy przyszłyśmy zakupić bilet, okazało się że autobusu jednak nie ma i będzie dopiero za trzy dni. W desperacji chodziłyśmy od biura do biura, jednak odpowiedź wszędzie była taka sama. Podobno często zdarza się że autobusy po prostu nie przyjeżdżają. W myśl zasady “byle dalej”, zdecydowałyśmy ruszyć do oddalonego o jedyne 270 km Phonsavan. Po przyjeździe na stację, tuż przed samym odjazdem wpadłyśmy w lekką konsternację. Na autobusie, którym miałyśmy jechać, wielkimi literami napisane było VINH. Pani w informacji wciąż obstawała przy wersji, że takowego połączenia dziś nie uświadczymy. Kierowca rzeczonego pojazdu i jego mowa ciała, zdawały się być zgoła innego zdania. Dzięki pomocy jadącego właśnie do Hanoi Honga, zweryfikowałyśmy prawdziwość zdobytych pokątnymi metodami informacji. Oddając wszystkie pozostałe nam laotańskie kipy, zostałyśmy zaproszone do iluminującego kolorowymi światełkami autokaru do Wietnamu. Przygotowane na ekstremalne doświadczenia podróży po lokalnych drogach, zażyłyśmy po tabletce dostępnego tu bez recepty Valium i oddałyśmy się słodkim snom o przyszłych przygodach.

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