O leniwy losie w Laosie

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Kolejnym przystankiem na naszej drodze był Laos. Zwiedzanie kraju rozpoczęłyśmy od stolicy – Wientianu (niemającej zbyt wiele wspólnego z sąsiednim Wietnamem). Pierwsze dwie noce spędziłyśmy w bardzo przyjemnym hostelu. Miałyśmy w planach huczne świętowanie ćwierćwiecza Katarzyny i założyłyśmy, że stolica nada się do tego idealnie.

Przyzwyczajone do bogatej oferty życia nocnego w zwiedzanych wcześniej miejscach, spodziewałyśmy się imprezy do białego rana albo chociaż przyzwoitego karaoke. Zauważyłyśmy już, że popołudniami (a właściwie od wczesnego południa) sporo lokalnych mieszkańców polewa sobie do szklaneczek kolejne porcje jedynego słusznego piwa – Beerlao.

Patriotycznie poprawnym jest smakowanie owego trunku przez sprzedawców w sklepie i klientów pod sklepem, towarzystwo pod budką z bagietkami i handlarzy na nocnym markecie. Wszyscy łoili równo, niektórzy zapraszali do przyłączenia się do niechlubnej biesiady. Picie laotańskiego złotego trunku przez nas, wzbudziło w mieszkańcach stolicy respekt i poważanie. Może się wydawać, że to przystawka i zaprawa przed późniejszym balowaniem. Nic bardziej mylnego. Na rausz należy wychodzić szybko i skutecznie, bo czas goni. W dobrym tonie jest zastosowanie zasady „pijany to do domu” w okolicach 21. W Wientianie życie zamiera około godziny 22, pierwsze kino otwarto kilka miesięcy temu, jedyne centrum handlowe przypomina nieco bardziej rozwinięty i zabudowany bazar, a po 23 ostatnimi kobietami na głównej ulicy byłyśmy my i znudzone panie oczekujące na klientów w świetle pobliskiej latarni. Rozczarowanie było wielkie (przynajmniej nasze, jak poszło koleżankom z chodnika – nie wiemy).

To (nie) jest kolejna słodka szesnastka

Kiedyś rozbuchana, pełna kipiących życiem barów i klubów stolica, z czasem zmieniła się nie do poznania. Jak się zapewne domyślacie, nie bez znaczenia był tu wpływ sierpa i młota.

Lekko rozczarowane polityką tego kraju, w którym przed północą ma obowiązywać cisza, nie liczyłyśmy na zbyt wiele atrakcji. Spędziłyśmy uroczy dzień kosztując tutejszych przysmaków (niestety – po rozpieszczeniu naszych kubków smakowych tajlandzkimi potrawami, te laotańskie nie zrobiły na nas większego wrażenia). Popijając drinka w najpopularniejszym wśród turystycznej elity barze Bor Pen Nyang (w wolnym tłumaczeniu „Hakuna Matata”), napawałyśmy się pięknym widokiem zachodu słońca nad Mekongiem. Skusiłyśmy się też na spróbowanie lokalnego cuda, czyli ryżowej whiskey Lao Lao. Widząc mocno orientalnie wyglądająca butelkę, podeszłyśmy do sprawy nieco sceptycznie. Merytoryczna konsultacja z wujem Google i obiecywany aromat wanilii sprawiły, że szybko zmieniłyśmy zdanie. Nie przestrzegamy i nie polecamy. Lao Lao kosztuje grosze, smakuje całkiem nieźle, nie pozostaje jednak obojętna dla organizmu dnia kolejnego.

Nie licząc że tego wieczoru zdarzy się coś jeszcze, leniwie przechadzałyśmy się po mieście. W pewnym momencie Beti zaskoczyła Kasię urodzinowym prezentem w postaci niezwykłego materiału filmowego z życzeniami od znajomych i rodziny z kraju i ze świata. Gdy wzruszona i zaryczana Kasia zachwycała się niespodzianką, sprawy przybrały nieoczekiwany obrót. Podeszło do nas kilka lokalnych dziewcząt i komplementując naszą urodę (Kasia akurat się rozmazała i zapewne wisiał jej jakiś gil z nosa, ale ważne, że skóra wciąż biała), zaprosiły nas na imprezę. Nie zastanawiając się długo, przystałyśmy na ich propozycję. Zapakowałyśmy się do samochodu i już po kilku minutach wylądowałyśmy w zapewne jedynym miejscu, w którym coś się jeszcze działo. Co więcej – zabawa była przednia, a muzyka, tak inna od typowych laotańskich rytmów, stanowiła miód dla naszych uszu. Ale to nie koniec atrakcji. Następnego dnia, po odespaniu, przeniosłyśmy się do naszego hosta. Uprzedzony przez Beti, przygotował imprezę – niespodziankę z balonami, gośćmi, jedzeniem, drinkami i – co najlepsze – tortem czekoladowym. Radości nie było końca, a kumulacja wrażeń i emocji oraz nieoczekiwanych wydarzeń sprawiła, że urodziny w Laosie były niezapomnianym przeżyciem. Solenizantka słodko dziękuję.

W krainie leniwego ziemniaka

Laos już od pierwszych dni w stolicy nauczył nas jak odpoczywać w wielkim stylu. Nasz host, przemiły Fin Aapo, był posiadaczem dwupiętrowego mieszkania, w którym znajdowało się mnóstwo hamaków, arcywygodnych sof i leżanek. Raz usadziwszy się komfortowo na jednej z nich, wcale nie miało się ochoty wstawać.

Jak stwierdził sam Aapo, Wientian to idealne miasto dla ludzi, którzy potrafią poddać się leniwemu tempu życia. Taras z widokiem na Mekong był jednym z tych miejsc na naszej drodze, w których poczułyśmy się niemalże jak w domu. Wypoczywałyśmy tam z przyjemnością, tym bardziej że sam Wientian nie miał zbyt wiele do zaoferowania pod względem zwiedzania. Przemierzyłyśmy go wzdłuż i wszerz na stopach i rowerach. Już po dwóch dniach każda ulica, budynek czy świątynia wydawały się dziwnie znajome.

Eksplorując miasto zwiedziłyśmy nocny market, którego w żadnym szanującym się azjatyckim mieście zabraknąć nie może. Towary trąciły tandeta, co oszczędziło nam pieniędzy. Skorzystałyśmy również z oferty wydarzeń kulturalnych miasta i obejrzałyśmy przedstawienie chińskiego teatru. Mamy co do niego mieszane uczucia – dla Beti było to przeżycie porównywalne ze swoistego rodzaju katharsis, Kasia utrzymuje, że poziom artystyczny dorównywał filmom rodem z kanału „Kraina Grzybów TV”. I tak też się czuła.

Najciekawszym punktem była wizyta w COPE – centrum zajmującym się produkcją protez, w którym dowiedziałyśmy się sporo o historii Laosu. Jest on usiany bombami i niewybuchami z czasów wojny w Wietnamie. Na kraj zrzucono wtedy około 270 milionów bomb, z czego większość nie została zdetonowana. Ta część wciąż stanowi ogromne zagrożenie dla mieszkańców. Często przerabiają je oni na przedmioty domowego użytku czy pamiątki, które można potem nabyć na targu. Dzieci poszukują bomb, gdyż przetopione na kunsztowne bransoletki, łyżki, stoliki czy donice, mogą stanowić źródło utrzymania dla całej rodziny. Od 1964 do 2011 roku w wyniku incydentów związanych z wybuchami ładunków zginęło lub zostało rannych 50 000 osób. W COPE dowiedziałyśmy się o sposobach oczyszczania kraju z niebezpiecznych pozostałości oraz o programie produkcji protez dla osób, które bardzo często zostają pozbawione kończyn w wyniku kontaktu z niewypałem. Wystawa prezentuje różne przedmioty domowego użytku zrobione z bomb. Jedną z wątpliwych atrakcji jest wielkie lustro, w które należy spojrzeć by wyobrazić sobie jakbyśmy wyglądali z protezą zamiast nogi (hm, bombowo?). Można również włożyć rękę do pudełka z lusterkiem w środku, aby lepiej zrozumieć zjawisko fantomowej kończyny. Pod muzeum na poruszonych zwiedzających czekają już żebrzący niepełnosprawni.

Kulawy autostop, czyli no money no honey

Vang Vieng to miejscowość oddalona o ponad 150 km od stolicy. Jako że Beti powoli przestaławała być kulą u nogi, postanowiłyśmy spróbować dojechać do niej autostopem. Ta wypróbowana metoda pozwoliła nam na przejechanie tysięcy kilometrów w Europie, nadszedł czas by sprawdzić, jak działa w Azji. Bilety co prawda nie porażały ceną, ale żądne kolejnych wrażeń, oczami wyobraźni widziałyśmy już jak siedzimy na pace pędzącego górskimi drogami samochodu. Czułyśmy jak wiatr smaga delikatnie nasze rozgrzane słońcem twarze i rozwiewa rozpuszczone włosy. Wizja była piękna, niestety brutalna rzeczywistość sprowadziła nas na brudną, zakurzoną ziemię. Szybko zorientowałyśmy się, że stojąc na ulicy i usilnie próbując zatrzymać jakiekolwiek auto, przykuwamy uwagę jedynie kierowców busów i tuk – tuków. Po bezskutecznych próbach wyjaśnienia niewielu, którzy zainteresowali się naszym losem, że nie mamy pieniędzy, udało nam się złapać starszego Japończyka. On jeden rozumiał ideę autostopu. Podwiózł nas kilka kilometrów i zapowiedział, że w ten sposób daleko nie zajedziemy, gdyż ta metoda podróżowania nie jest tu znana. Laotańczycy w ogóle mało podróżują, a jeśli już, używają transportu publicznego, który jest dla nich znacznie tańszy niż dla turystów. Niezrażone tym faktem, próbowałyśmy dalej. Znowu bez rezultatu. Policzki bolały od życzliwego (desperackiego?) uśmiechania się, a przyciemnione szyby samochodów nie pozwalały na złapanie choćby nici kontaktu z kierowcami. Dodatkowo skutecznie zniechęcał nas przybierający na sile skwar, kończące się zapasy wody i kolejne mijające nas busy. Po dłuższym czasie stania w ponad trzydziestostopniowym upale, dałyśmy za wygraną. Utargowałyśmy odpowiednią cenę i wsiadłyśmy do kolejnego busa. Spróbujemy ponownie w Wietnamie.

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