Plaża i kokosy gdy Wam odmarzają nosy – Filipiny cz. II

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Wylot na wyspę Palawan pamiętamy jak przez mgłę. Następnym razem, gdy przyjdzie Wam bukować bilet na 1 stycznia, przy czym planujecie „trochę” zabalować w Sylwestra, zastanówcie się dwa razy. Wiedzieliśmy na co się piszemy, ale wyszliśmy z założenia, że nie ma co tracić czasu na leczenie syndromu dnia poprzedniego w hostelowym pokoju i lepiej robić to na rajskiej plaży.

Była to właściwa decyzja. Po krótkim locie, na lotnisku powitały nas panie serwujące soki i zakąski. Na naszej szyi został zawieszony okolicznościowy prowizoryczny medalik, a przed wejściem do terminala odbywał się pokaz tradycyjnego tańca z błogą muzyką w tle. Całość generowała iście rajską atmosferę. W naszym półprzytomnym stanie przez chwilę mieliśmy wrażenie, że to sen na jawie, efekt uboczny zbyt intensywnej celebracji Nowego Roku bądź fatamorgana spowodowana połączeniem odwodnienia organizmu, różnicy ciśnień i szerokości geograficznej. Prawda była nieco bardziej prozaiczna – pierwszy dzień stycznia to święto.

Z lotniska odebrała nas właścicielka hostelu, w którym też zorganizowaliśmy wyjazd do najdłuższej podziemnej rzeki na świecie. Ruszyliśmy tam z samego rana dnia następnego. Chociaż wycieczka składała się w dużej mierze z oczekiwania – na indywidualne pozwolenie, dojazd z przystankami, łódka nr 1 i sama łódź do jaskini – to sama wizyta wynagrodziła wcześniejsze znużenie. Zaopatrzeni w dźwiękową wersję przewodnika, przez około 40 minut zwiedzaliśmy wnętrze jaskini. Niesamowite formy skalne, wśród nich „słynny” kamień – Sharon Stone (żart przewodnika…) i ogrom jaskni po raz kolejny wywołały w nas podziw dla piękna natury. Dzięki latarkom mieliśmy szansę dojrzeć w całkowitej ciemności mnóstwo nietoperzy. Kto oglądał „Jumanji” zapewne rozumie, dlaczego Kasia czuła się spokojniej ze świadomością, że jej włosy są zakryte przez kask. Kto nie widział – niech się domyśla.

W Puerto Princessa zostaliśmy jeszcze jeden dzień. Miasto nie oferuje zbyt wielu atrakcji w centrum i stanowi raczej bazę wypadową do pobliskich skarbów natury i przepięknych plaż. Udało nam się jednak znaleźć na Couchsurfingu wspaniałego hosta, który zaoferował nam nocleg w swoim prywatnym raju. Oddalone od centrum „Bambusowe Gniazdo” składało się z bungalowów i sporych rozmiarów ogrodu z licznymi hamakami. To wystarczyło byśmy zostali w mieście dłużej. Warto wspomnieć, że miejsce normalnie wynajmowane jest na airbnb za kwotę, która znacznie przekraczała nas budżet. Jonathan okazał się być człowiekiem o wielkim sercu (i zniewalająco białym uśmiechu), który z przyjemnością użyczył nam domu.

Kuchnia azjatycka – poziom niedobry

Na Filipinach największy problem stanowiło jedzenie. Puerto Princesa opisywane było w przewodniku jako miejsce kulinarnych rozkoszy, jednak nam musiało to jakoś umknąć. Każdy spożyty przez nas posiłek nijak miał się do tajskiej kuchni. Filipińczycy zdają się gardzić przyprawami i warzywami. Ceny nabiału – jak w całej Azji – są mocno zaporowe. Za to mięso dodawane jest do wszystkiego. Można odnieść wrażenie, że nic się nie marnuje, gdyż użyte zostają wszystkie części zwierzęcia ze wszystkimi kośćmi. To, zaserwowane z ryżem (ewentualnie jajem) stanowi podstawę diety. Owoce morza nam się jeszcze nie przejadły (nawet nie zakładamy, że to się kiedyś wydarzy), ale kawałki różnorodnych mięs nieznanego pochodzenia wprawiają w konsternację nasze podniebienia i kubki smakowe (może poza mięsem w sosie „adobo”). Gdy w końcu mieliśmy dostęp do kuchni i chcieliśmy sporządzić „śniadanie mistrzów”, oferta lokalnego warzywniaka mocno nas rozczarowała. O ile na liczbę i jakość owoców narzekać nie można (mmm….mango!), to zakupiony ogórek nadawał się raczej do wyrzucenia niż spożycia, a pomidory były niedojrzałe i pozbawione smaku. „Mistrzowskie” śniadanie okazało się więc lekkim niewypałem. Na poprawę nastroju udaliśmy się do restauracji wegetariańskiej – i tam czekało nas rozczarowanie. Pierwszego dnia była zamknięta, przez co trafiliśmy na jeden z obrzydliwszych posiłków w życiu, zaś drugiego nasze proste dania serwowano przez dobrą godzinę, pomylono zamówienia i tak naprawdę jedynym zadowolonym był Bartek, który skusił się na meksykańskie burrito…

El Nido i raj na Palawanie
Odchodząc od kulinariów – odjechaliśmy na północ ku owianemu sławą El Nido. Plotki tym razem nie są przesadzone – nadmorskie miasteczko stanowi idealny cel dla miłośników piasku i wody, pływania i wspinaczki. Skusiliśmy się na słynny „island hopping” i łodzią, kajakami bądź wpław docieraliśmy do kolejnych ukrytych zakątków.

Wyspy, plaże i laguny – wszystko skąpane gorącym słońcem (my też!). Gdy przygrzeje za mocno palmy służą uprzejmie cieniem. Pragnienie ugasi sok z kokosa bądź szejk z mango. Leż na hamaku, taplaj się w wodzie i czekaj na imponujący zachód słońca. Tak, to o to chodzi z tymi Filipinami.

Po El Nido zamierzaliśmy odwiedzić jeszcze jedno miejsce, ale błoga atmosfera i urocze plaże zachęciły nas do zostania tam dłużej. Było tu wszystko, czego potrzebowaliśmy. Ponadto, dzięki naszemu nowemu towarzyszowi, któremu jazda na motorze nie jest obca, miałyśmy okazję poczuć wiatr we włosach oraz zwiedzić nieco dalszą okolicę i cudowną plażę Nacban.

Wszystko co dobre szybko się kończy – tak było też z naszym pobytem na Palawanie. Powrót do Manili nie napawał optymizmem. Mimo, iż spędzonego tu Sylwestra wspominamy z rozrzewnieniem, to stolica nie zachęcała nas do odkrywania. I tym razem mieliśmy jednak szczęście – trafiliśmy na przemiłą hostkę Ricę, która codziennie użyczała dachu kilku podróżującym backpackersom. Nocy której tam dotarliśmy, w jej maleńkim mieszkaniu miało spać 9 osób. Wymagało to sporej logistyki, zwłaszcza przy podziale podłogi na miejsce do spania. Z początku ta ilość ludzi i absolutny brak własnego kąta nas wystraszyły (chociaż – bądźmy szczerzy – zdarzało nam się spać w znacznie gorszych warunkach). Pierwsze wrażenie wywołane było pewnie zmęczeniem, przy drugim okazało się, że nasi „współspacze” są przesympatyczni a salonik zastąpił nam „pokój wspólny” w hostelu.

Wycieczka na wulkan 
Nie mogliśmy wysiedzieć w mieście zbyt długo – wszak Filipiny mają zbyt wiele niesamowitych krajobrazów do zaoferowania. Po dwóch dniach zdecydowaliśmy odwiedzić pobliski wulkan – pierwszy na naszej drodze. Taal jest maleńki, ale wciąż aktywny – ostatnia erupcja miała miejsce w późnych latach 70. Noc spędziliśmy w Tagaytay, miasteczku położonym nieopodal. Na dzień kolejny zaplanowaliśmy wspinaczkę. Wielu leniwych turystów korzysta z transportu na grzbiecie okolicznych koni, które przy małej zachęcie poganiaczy, dzielnie parły pod górę. Po drodze spotkaliśmy również kozy. Beztrosko pogryzając trawkę były z pewnością zachwycone, że żaden solidnych rozmiarów turysta nie próbuje ich dosiadać. Kolejną atrakcją jest możliwość wstrzelenia piłeczką golfową wprost do jeziora wulkanicznego. Obie te czynności zostają rzecz jasna solidnie udokumentowane na pamiątkowych zdjęciach sprzedawanych później w wymyślnych ramkach. Dlatego, aby maszynka turystyki pracowała sprawnie, drukarka jest przedmiotem pierwszej potrzeby. Widoki były naprawdę niesamowite. Krajobraz miejscami przypominał ten, który było nam dane zobaczyć kilka lat temu na Islandii. Przestrzegano nas przed śmiałkami, oferującymi podobno niebezpieczne i z całą pewnością nielegalne wyprawy ku wnętrzu wulkanu. Nie skusiłyśmy się zatem na oferty dalszego trekkingu, szczególnie że atmosfera była naprawdę gorąca a kojąca ulewa wisiała w powietrzu. Skoro jeden z najmniejszych mamy już na swoim koncie, najwyższa pora sięgać po kolejne. Wycieczka była świetnym pomysłem – do Manili wróciliśmy już prosto na lotnisko.

Filipiny pozostaną w naszej pamięci jako kraj przemiłych ludzi (którzy – choć mogliby lepiej gotować, to przynajmniej mówią po angielsku!) i przepięknych krajobrazów. Ich różnorodność sprawia, że naprawdę każdy znajdzie tu coś dla siebie. Pływanie, wylegiwanie się na plaży czy trekking z niesamowitymi krajobrazami w tle… My spędziliśmy tu tylko 3 tygodnie a wysp i wysepek jest tu wiele. Cóż, wniosek jest jeden – kiedyś trzeba będzie wrócić!

325 komentarze(y)
  • Nomideusz
    Styczeń 31, 2016

    Bardzo ciekawe, a ten gość że zdjęć to jakiś model? Ponadprzeciętnie przystojny typ…

    • Andżela
      Luty 1, 2016

      Kim jest facet w granatowej koszulce? Wydaje mi się, że kojarzę go z jakiegoś filmu, ale nie jestem pewna, jakiego.

      • Krysia
        Luty 9, 2016

        Chyba widziałam go w serialu „Na krawędzi” albo „Pitt bull”. Ta broda mega znajoma.

        • Andżela
          Luty 23, 2016

          I co dalej? Tu się podróż kończy?

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    Luty 2, 2016

    Ojej, jak tęsknię za tymi miejscami! Super dziewczyny, że odwiedziłyście Filipiny, to, jak dla mnie, jedno z najcudowniejszych miejsc na świecie 😀 Powodzenia w podróży i dajcie znać jak wrócicie 😀

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