It’s more fun in the Philippines – Filipiny

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Do Manili doleciałyśmy wczesnym rankiem. To było jak wylądowanie na zupełnie innej planecie. Skok temperatury, mnogość kolorów, odpicowane jeepneye, życzliwi i uśmiechnięci ludzie. Przyzwyczajone do komunikacji angielskim w stylu “Kali jeść, Kali pić”, potrzebowałyśmy chwili żeby przestawić się na tryb pełnych, gramatycznie rozwiniętych zdań. Jak pewnie wiecie, angielski jest drugim oficjalnym językiem Filipin (zaraz po rodzimym tagalo), co oznaczało koniec wątpliwości co do zawartości naszego obiadu.

Trafiłyśmy w sam środek świątecznej atmosfery. Poczułyśmy to dopiero, gdy kolejne uśmiechnięte twarze mijanych przez nas ludzi wolały radośnie “Merry Christmas”. Kierowcy autobusów, trójkołowców, bawiące się na ulicach dzieci, policjanci, bezdomni, kasjer w sieciówce 7/11, pani sprzedająca owoce, staruszek z okna domu – dosłownie wszyscy. W ten sposób “Merry Christmas” stało się hasłem przewodnim naszych pierwszych chwil na Filipinach i jakoś załagodziło zmęczenie nieprzespanej nocy w samolocie. Tym bardziej, że czekała nas kolejna – tym razem w nocnym autobusie na północ Luzonu, do Banaue (w końcu kolejne dziedzictwo UNESCO – nie mogło nas tam zabraknąć). Według informacji odnalezionych w internecie, mogłyśmy przebywać ma terenie Filipin bez wizy do 21 dni, dlatego też chciałyśmy jak najlepiej wykorzystać ten czas. Przy samej odprawie paszportowej okazało się, że dostałyśmy trzydzieści dni. Nasz czas tutaj był już jednak dokładnie zaplanowany, bilet powrotny zakupiony, plan zwiedzania obmyślony. Tym razem pobite gary, acz cenna informacja na przyszłość. Musiałyśmy jakoś przeczekać dzień włócząc się po mieście. Stwierdziłyśmy, że świetnym pomysłem będzie odnalezienie przyjemnej kawiarni z internetem. Szybko zdałyśmy sobie sprawę, że nie będzie to takie łatwe. W końcu święta a wraz z nimi duża ilość miejsc pozamykana na cztery spusty.

Naszą jedyną opcją okazały się być zatłoczone galerie handlowe. Taki tłum to norma w tym okresie. Ulice miasta opustoszały, a większość Filipińskich rodzin szturmowała wielkie, klimatyzowane molochy. Byłyśmy nieco zaskoczone i przytłoczone tym co zobaczyłyśmy. My – jedyne białe wśród hord lokalnej ludności w zakupowej gorączce. Do tego nigdzie nie mogłyśmy znaleźć porządnego internetu, nawet w starym dobrym McDonaldzie, który w podobnych sytuacjach zwykle sprawdza się niezawodnie. Jak się później dowiedziałyśmy, z internetem na Filipinach ogólnie ciężko, co podobno ma związek ze skorumpowamym rządem. Myslałyśmy również o wybraniu się do kina, ale ogromne kolejki szybko zniechęciły nas do tego pomysłu. Obserwowałyśmy zatem ludzi i oferty produktów spożywczych, aklimatyzując do nowego otoczenia, oczekując wyrwania się ku naturze.

Trekking na zwłokę i zwłoki na skale

Nocny autobus do Banaue przypomniał nam o wietnamskiej zimie. Dygotałyśmy nawet w sweterze, a mrożąca krew w żyłach klima nie pozwoliła zmróżyć oka nawet po odpowiedniej dawce naszych ulubionych niebieskich tabletek. Wiedząc, że tego dnia i tak nie będziemy w stanie iść na trekking po terasach ryżowych, z marszu (chociaż vanem) ruszyłyśmy do położonej nieco dalej w górach Sagady. Zazwyczaj ogarniamy nocleg z wyprzedzeniem, tym razem jednak nie było w czym przebierać. Ta urocza mieścina była jednym z miejsc świątecznych wypadów Filipińczyków, którzy postanowili w tym roku odpuścić galerie handlowe i ruszyć bliżej natury. Gdy tylko udało nam się coś znaleźć, niemal natychmiast padłyśmy żeby odespać czas spędzony w podróży.

Kolejnego dnia postanowiłyśmy iść na trekking do wielkiego wodospadu Bomod-ok w dolinie. Ze względu na turystyczny charakter Sagady, trzeba było przygotować się na kilka dodatkowych kosztów. Koniecznością było wynajęcie przewodnika, który miał obowiązek zarejestrować swoje stadko przed trekkingiem. Pakiety wycieczkowe dostępne były w centrum informacji turystycznej, tym razem jednak postanowiłyśmy pojechać tam na własną rękę i zobaczyć co się stanie. Wyszłyśmy na drogę i już po chwili złapałyśmy jeepneya (który przewodził akurat kilka skrzynek piwa “Red Horse” – jak się później okazało całkiem niezłego). Gdy dotarliśmy na miejsce, kierowca zaproponował, że to on zostanie naszym przewodnikiem. Wyglądał na poczciwinę, zgodziłyśmy się więc skorzystać z jego oferty. Zeszliśmy do doliny, w której była położona jego rodzinna wioska. Później czekał nas jeszcze krótki trekking wśród zieleniących się nieśmiało terasów ryżowych dalej ku podnóżom wodospadu. Widok był imponujący. Niektórzy śmiałkowie odważyli się popływać w lodowato zimnej wodzie czy też skoczyć ze śliskiej skały prosto do środka.

Po krótkiej przerwie na lepki ryż w liściu bananowca (nasza ulubiona przekąska na drogę), ruszyliśmy z powrotem, aby zdążyć wrócić przed zmrokiem. Powrót zakładał pokonanie niezliczonej ilości schodów. Schodzenie było nadwyraz łatwe, gorzej w drugą stronę. Podczas trekkingu po górach pokonuje się najpierw cześć trudniejszą, którą jest podejście na stok, później to już z przysłowiowej górki. Tu było odwrotnie. Nasz przewodnik w japonkach skakał beztrosko po kolejnych stopniach niczym górska kozica, pisząc przy tym SMSy, podczas gdy my w trekach walczyłyśmy o przetrwanie. Zziajane i zmęczone dzielnie parłyśmy na sam szczyt, w momentach kryzysu proponując krótką przerwę na zdjęcie (nie mogłyśmy przecież tak po prostu przyznać, że zaraz wyzioniemy ducha). Od miasteczka dzieliło nas jeszcze 7 km. Nabuzowane energią ze wspinaczki, byłyśmy nawet skłonne je przejść. Po drodze mijałyśmy kolejne wioski, pola ryżowe i pastwiska. Nie było dzieciaka, który nie przywitałby się wesoło, rzucając standardowe: “Hello Miss, Merry Christmas”. Wyobraźcie sobie nasze zdziwienie, gdy pewna cudowna babcia odezwała się do nas perfekcyjnym angielskim pytając: “Enjoying your trekking ladies?”. Powoli zaczynało się robić ciemno, zaczęłyśmy więc machać na kolejne samochody. Zatrzymał się mini van z grupą Filipińczyków, których mijałyśmy na szlaku. Tradycyjnie porobili sobie z nami zdjęcia, przeprowadzili pogłębiony wywiad środowiskowy i powymieniali kontaktami na wypadek gdybyśmy chcieli spotkać się w Manili.

Kolejnego dnia wybrałyśmy się zobaczyć słynne wiszące trumny w „Echo dolinie”. Zamieszkująca te tereny ludność, zamiast grzebać swoich zmarłych w ziemii, zwykła przywieszać ich ciała na skałach w małych, drewnianych trumienkach. Bynajmniej nie chodzi tu o oszczędność miejsca a o wierzenie, że zmarły powinien na powrót przyjąć pozycję płodową. Przytwierdzone obok krzesełko, miało służyć duszy do posadzenia jej transcendentalnych czterech liter. Komfort musi być, poza tym słabo tak wisieć przez całą wieczność. Z czasem zwyczaj ten zanikł, po części pod wpływem anglikańskich misjonarzy przybywających na Filipiny w poprzednim stuleciu. Niektórzy mieszkańcy mimo wszystko nadal kultywują ten nietypowy rytuał. Choć trekking był banalnie prosty, po raz kolejny nie mogłyśmy przejść dalej bez przewodnika. Na pomoc przyszła kolejna grupa wesołych Filipińczyków. Przyjęli nas z wielkim entuzjazmem. Przewodnik był zawodowo przygotowany, choć czasami potrzebował tłumacza. Miałyśmy też swojego prywatnego fotografa, który szybko przejął aparat i zaczął cykać nam fotki w każdym możliwym miejscu i konfiguracji. My z trumnami, my na cmentarzu, my krzyczące do doliny echa, my i przewodnik, my i cała grupa, my i kolega, trzy koleżanki i my, my i dwóch ladyboyów. Ci ostatni byli szczególnie uroczy, zagadując, żartując i z gracją hasając po kolejnych kamieniach. Trzydzieści minut i fotek później zapraszali nas żebyśmy dołączyli do nich na kolejnym trekkingu, my jednak musiałyśmy złapać transport z powrotem do Banaue.

Jazda jeepneyem po krętych, górskich drogach Kordylierów przyniosła sporo wrażeń, szczególnie gdy zachęcone przez dwie Filipinki, przesiadłyśmy się na dach. Znów poczułyśmy się jak na rollercoasterze. Po kwadransie jazdy przestałyśmy już obawiać się że spadniemy w przepaść. Podziwiałyśmy niesamowite widoki natury, gór i kolejnych pól ryżowych na ich stokach, rozkoszując się napływającą do żył adrenaliną.

W Banaue miałyśmy jeszcze dzień na trekking po terasach ryżowych (już to chyba gdzieś słyszeliście). Te najsłynniejsze, wyróżnione przez UNESCO znajdują się właśnie tutaj oraz w położonym nieopodal Batad. Gdy dotarłyśmy już do właściwego punktu widokowego z którego mogłyśmy zejść w dół, złapał nas ostry deszcz. Pewien Japończyk zapuścił się nieco dalej, żeby zrobić lepsze zdjęcie i o mało nie przewrócił się wprost do błota. Obawiając się śliskich kamieni i ewentualnego upadku z kilku metrów w dół, stwierdziłyśmy racjonalnie, że tym razem popodziwiamy ich piękno z dystansu.

Prawdziwe oblicze Manili

Nadszedł czas na powrót do stolicy, gdzie miałyśmy spędzić Sylwestra. Manila jest ogromnym miastem, złożonym z kilkunastu dystryktów. Obok dzielnic bogatych, na obrzeżach wykwitają połacie slumsów. Miałyśmy spędzić tu kilka dni po przyjeździe z północy. Zaznajomione już z tematyką wolontariatu, pomyślałyśmy, że może warto poświęcić trochę swojego wolnego czasu na pomoc innym i tutaj. Kasia akurat była na etapie czytania „suplementu obyczajowego do przewodnika Lonely Planet” – książki „Eli, Eli”, która jest zbiorem reportaży i historii ubogich mieszkańców slumsów w Manili. Padła tam nazwa organizacji True Manila, która ponoć zajmuje się pomocą mieszkańcom. Kasia już zaplanowała nam dłuższy pobyt w stolicy, bohatersko stwierdziła, że nadajemy się do każdej roboty i z chęcią pomożemy. Zdążyła się nawet skontaktować z głównym organizatorem zbiórek i działań organizacji. A potem doczytała książkę do końca… Cóż nie chce zdradzać szczegółów, ale okazało się, że Pan Organizator ma nie do końca czyste sumienie a za chęć pomocy trzeba całkiem sporo zapłacić. Rozczarowane stwierdziłyśmy, że niekoniecznie chcemy współpracować z człowiekiem o szemranej reputacji i tym razem poświęcimy się wyłącznie zwiedzaniu. Jak to wszystko wygląda naprawdę – raczej się nie dowiemy. Samą książkę Kasia ogromnie poleca. Temat biedy poruszony w „Eli, Eli” był wyraźnie widoczny na ulicach Manili. Tym bardziej że zdarzyło nam się zapuścić w mniej uczęszczane dzielnice (gdzie przez cały dzień nie spotkałyśmy nikogo spoza Filipin). Tam też na ulicach spało bądź plątało się mnóstwo dzieci oraz ludzi, którym los nie był do końca przychylny. Przypadkowa wizyta w jednym z marketów – który niespodziewanie „wyrósł” na chodniku i ciągnął się tak kilometrami – wywołał w nas nawet nieco stresu, bo w pewnymin momencie znalazłyśmy się ściśnięte jak sardynki w puszce pomiędzy wrzeszczącymi ludźmi sprzedającymi wibratory i święte obrazki, kradzione telefony bądź chińskie „majfony” i okropnie głośne zestawy do domowego karaoke, przy dzieciach proszących o pieniądze i hotelu z pokojami na godziny. Tłum i liczba bodźców nas przytłoczyły, a gdy nabrałyśmy dziwnego przeczucia, że zamek plecaka został przez kogoś szarpnięty, zdecydowałyśmy odpuścić dalszą eksplorację tej wyjątkowo lokalnej okolicy (Cejrowski nie byłby dumny…).

W Manili widoczne były ogromne kontrasty – nowoczesne budynki przy prowizorycznych chatach złożonych z „byle czego”. Ogromnie poruszający jest widok dużej ilości śpiących na ulicach dzieci – bądź kilkulatków zajmujących się samymi sobą. Podobnie jak w Kambodży i tu dane nam było ujrzeć sporo młodych, ślicznych dziewczyn(ek) w towarzystwie podstarzałych tatusiów z Zachodu. Prostytucja jest kolejnym wielkim problemem, sporo też klubów z pokazami erotycznymi. Do tego stopnia, że w jednej dzielnicy trudno nam było znaleźć normalny pub. No ok, był jeszcze taki z walczącymi karłami, ale to show też zdecydowalisciśmy się odpuścić.

Zimne ognie i gorący Sylwester

W stolicy przywitałyśmy Bartka, najwspanialszego człowieka na świecie, który miał od teraz podróżować razem z nami. Byliśmy już wcześniej razem na kilku wyjazdach, między innymi jego legendarnym Bartwagenem na Bałkanach. Powitałyśmy go selfie z wulkanem Pinatubo, który akurat stał w naszym hostelowym pokoju i owocowym winem prosto z odległej północy Filipin (wierzcie bądź nie, ale wino o smaku słodkiego ziemniaka i ananasa smakuje naprawdę dobrze). Społeczność Couchsurfingowa planowała na ten dzień imprezę na dachu jednego z wieżowców w Makati. Słyszałyśmy sporo o szaleńczym zamiłowaniu Filipińczyków do fajerwerków. Podobno przebywanie na ulicach Manili w czasie ich odpalania grozi poparzeniem, utratą oka albo kończyny. Beti już raz była kulawa, więc wolała obyć się bez powtórki z rozrywki. Dach wieżowca był idealnym miejscem do podziwiania spektakularnego widowiska. Międzynarodowe towarzystwo, nowi filipińscy znajomi i widok z góry na miasto tonące w morzu fajerwerków pozostanie w naszej pamięci na długo.

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